Cosmetic chemists in the US have been under pressure for years now to build performance-driven, aesthetically pleasing sunscreens with one hand tied behind their backs, so to speak. The industry remains in a holding pattern—waiting for critical announcements from Food & Drug Administration—even as healthcare professionals shout from the rooftops about the dire need to protect skin from harmful UVA and UVB and rising skin cancer rates. (See “Is a US Sunscreen Public Health Crisis Brewing,” Happi, February 2024).

According to recent 52-week data from Circana, sales of sun products, namely suntan lotions and oils, in US multi-outlets rose 7.4% last year. However, unit sales dropped 1.9%. The category remains dominated by sun-centric industry stalwarts like Banana Boat, Coppertone, Hawaiian Tropic and Sun Bum. But brands with skin care gravitas have become top players, too.

Kenvue’s Neutrogena, for example, is a category leader based on Circana data, with dollar sales of $319.2 million last year. LaRoche-Posay and CeraVe—both part of L’Oréal—have grown their presence in sun care too (click here to view market leaders).

New product development and marketing today is aimed toward shifting sun care usage to a daily cadence and heritage sun care brands today tout ingredients with benefits suited for application all 12 months of the year, not just the weeks between Memorial Day and Labor Day.

Winter Sun Behavior Is a Derm’s Discontent

Sunscreen is needed every day—even when temperatures drop, insist health officials. But donning SPF products when the calendar calls for down coats and wool sweaters isn’t how most consumers operate.

A recent American Academy of Dermatology survey found that nearly one in five adults are not aware that they can get sunburned during the winter, and even fewer protect themselves from the sun before common cold-weather outdoor activities.

According to the survey, one in seven Americans are unaware that the sun’s UV rays are reflected by snow, water and sand.

“Many people don’t realize that you need to use sun protection in the winter,” noted Dawn Davis, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist and professor of dermatology at Mayo Clinic Rochester. “It’s easy to get sunburned during colder months because snow reflects the sun’s damaging rays.”

Only 13% of Americans plan to use sun protection when going for walks or hikes in cold weather. Just 4% plan for it when shoveling snow, and only 6% during outdoor games, exercise, or sports in cold weather, found AAD in its survey.

The latter is where Kiehl’s has decided to step up its marketing efforts. The brand is now the official SPF partner of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. The partnership combines digital and out-of-home education in prominent places as well as product sampling at high-traffic places—like gondolas that take skiers up to the peak—as well as through consumer events and activations.

The collaboration will elevate Kiehl’s skin care products for the face and body, such as its Better Screen UV Serum. It is billed as multi-use UV serum formulated with collagen peptides and SPF 50 to visibly correct early signs of aging and prevent signs of future UV damage and collagen degradation. The sheer formula boosts skin’s firmness and reduces fine lines and wrinkles through small fragments of collagen protein that stimulate the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, according to the L’Oréal-owned brand.

The Skin of Color Society (SOCS) is also advocating for year-round sun protection via efforts like My Best Winter Day. Held in October last year, SOCS members, medical students and dermatology residents in Chicago and Washington, DC shared educational tips for managing winter skin—including wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen—that were developed by the SOCS Patient Education Committee. Further, SOCS members in 18 US states committed to conduct outreach events in their communities and on college campuses during the winter.

Neutrogena is also spotlighting the importance of sunscreen in the winter season. Last month, the Kenvue-owned brand set up a pop-up in New York City’s Union Square and handed out coffee and a complimentary Neutrogena sun product—along with information about the benefits and importance of SPF protection year-round.

For the brand, it is perfect messaging for products like Neutrogena Invisible Daily Defense Face Serum SPF 60+, which it describes as a weightless and antioxidant-packed sunscreen that helps protect skin from sun and environmental aggressors throughout the long winter days.

Of course, brands still promote sun protection during peak summer months. For instance, La Roche-Posay recently signed a deal with Italian tennis star Jannik Sinner as its new global brand advocate. This long-term collaboration with the 2024 men’s Australian Open winner will leverage La Roche-Posay’s Anthelios brand.

On the Daily

Damage caused by the sun has no seasonality and UV doesn’t care what was forecast in the local weather reporter either.

“Sun protection is vitally important because ultraviolet (UV) rays are always present, regardless of the season or time of day,” said Dr. Davis. “Even on cloudy days, up to 80% of the sun’s harmful UV rays can penetrate the clouds.”

“If it’s not dark outside, you need to wear sunscreen,” asserted dermatologist Dr. Lindsey Zubritsky (known as dermguru on Instagram) during a recent SPF “masterclass” hosted by Clinique.

According to Zubritsky, incidental sun exposure—the moments when one is not conscious of sun exposure—add up over time, and that’s a concern.

The majority of skin care cancers are caused by the sun, regardless of skin tone or Fitzpatrick type, according to Dr. Zubritsky. She advocates to her patients to see sunscreen not just as an add on, but as a preventative treatment. At least one in five Americans will develop skin cancer during their lifetime, and sun exposure is the most preventable risk factor for skin cancer, including melanoma, the deadliest form of skin cancer. Unprotected sun exposure can also cause skin aging, such as wrinkles and age spots.

Ease of application is another mechanism to increase compliance in the war against skincare and aging skin. Heritage suncare brand Banana Boat has a new non-aerosol dual sprayer that lets users choose between a continuous spray or short bursts, all while delivering coverage.  What’s more, the 360 Coverage SPF 50+ Mist is refillable, reusable and recyclable. The formula is made with clinically proven UVA/UVB protection and aims to protect users from up to 98% of burning rays. Consumers can find Banana Boat’s 360 Coverage SPF 50+ Mist on Amazon, Walgreens and the brand’s website. It has a retail price of $8.99 for a refill and $11.99 for a bottle.

Convergence of Categories

If dermatologists had their druthers, an SPF product would be in everyone’s grooming quiver, just like toothpaste.

The skin care industry seems to be heading in a direction that can help. New skin care launches with a UV protection claim, globally, have been on the rise in the past three years—growing from 31% in 2021 to 34% in 2002 to 35% in 2023, according to data tracked in Mintel’s Global New Products Database.

Although sunscreen is the leading choice for sun protection, multifunctional beauty and personal care (BPC) products with skin protection are more likely used regularly year-round for both men (50%) and women (61%). It’s a trend toward multifunctional products that make SPF use easy within routines, according to Mintel.

More brands are adding SPF to their new skin care launches this season. Clinique’s new Smart Clinical Repair SPF 30 Wrinkle Correcting Cream, for example, is a lightweight dermal-active SPF moisturizer that officials say visibly repairs wrinkles, protects with SPF, and helps prevent future damage. In mass, Eucerin’s new Immersive Hydration Collection includes a daily lotion with broad spectrum SPF 30.

Indie Sun Care Innovations

New SPF formulations with enhanced aesthetics continue to flow from indie brands, too.

W.S. Badger, Gilsum, NH, believes its new sunscreens are the balm the category needs—offering consumers who desire daily protection with luxury aesthetics.

Badger’s new SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreens for face and body are reef-safe, lightweight and waterless—all with a limited ingredient deck. That short roster of components includes key materials like moisturizing golden seaweed extract, which delivers a luxurious skin feel and added blue light protection, and zinc oxide. Formulas are water-resistant to 40 minutes and provide broad-spectrum protection.

According to CEO Rebecca Hamilton, Badger’s new sunscreens check all of the boxes—from offering high levels of SPF, to an ultra-sheer matte formula that works well across all skin tones, to “no drag” on the skin during application.  (Listen to our 2019 podcast with Hamilton here.)

“It has unlimited playtime,” Hamilton told Happi during a Zoom call about the formula.

The secret to the aesthetics lies in Badger’s in-house expertise that has been honed for a quarter of a century.

The family-owned B Corp—which began as a maker of balms—has leveraged its extensive processing and balm know-how to formulate the next level of sunscreens.

“Balms have been around for thousands of years,” Hamilton said. “This represents a brand-new innovation in sunscreens that has never been done before.”

Vertically integrated, Badger controls the entire process—from R&D to scale-up to processing—and it has a patent pending to protect its IP, according to Hamilton.

Minu is also out to challenge perceptions of mineral sunscreens. The startup was founded by executives—including its R&D director—who spent time at big brands in beauty and wellness like Neutrogena and Nestlé.

“Until now sunscreen involved compromise. Every year there are more negative headlines about chemical sunscreen—the latest being whether or not the FDA will remove some or all chemical UV filters from the market due to insufficient safety data. We avoid these problems by using mineral UV filters that are universally embraced as safe and effective around the world. But all mineral formulas are not created equal, and they haven’t been able to match chemical sunscreen for wearability, especially on more melanated skin, said Minu Co-Founder and CEO Adam Guggenheim.

Minu’s first product, Brightening Minerals Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Gel-Cream, is powered by the brand’s “Mineral Superblend” technology. The formula “perfectly fuses exceptional sun care with luxurious skin care in a luminous daily facial mineral sunscreen, moisturizer and primer in one—without compromise,” according to Guggenheim.

Minu Brightening Sunscreen Minerals protects against UVA, UVB, infrared, pollution and blue light, and the hypoallergenic formula meets the Credo Clean Standard. 

“We wanted to set a new global industry standard. We wanted to create an uncompromising fusion of the best protection, aesthetics, inclusivity and safety—we wanted it all. We aimed big because we wanted to create a new skin care icon,” said Christine Koppinger, co-founder, who has served in innovation roles at Nestlé and Accenture.

“We created something that anyone can instantly tell is a game changer on first touch,” she added.

According to Guggenheim, there is a shift underway in how sun protection fits in the beauty space.

“The idea that the foundation of good skin care is daily sun protection is gaining traction—it has always been advocated by dermatologists, and it is now being embraced by editors, influencers and tastemakers. You can see a lot of new brands and products coming into this space,” he said.

Work remains to win over the hearts and minds of everyone, but new formulas can help move the needle, according to the Minu team.

“There is still a long way to go, though, before average consumers name sunscreen as their number one skin care must-have. And a large part of that is because although there has been a decent amount of improvement, until now there hasn’t been a game-changing product that turns this necessary item into a luxurious skin care product that you love to wear,” said Guggenheim.

“The portfolio of brands led by Neutrogena, where Minu’s head of R&D was responsible for many breakthroughs including UltraSheer and Wet Skin sunscreens, popularized sunscreens by making them more wearable with continued high levels of protection, but they weren’t placed in the luxury beauty category and don’t quite behave like luxury skin care. More people are now seeking out mineral UV filters and there is still a need for a sunscreen that people crave using, and that’s the point of difference in Minu,” he asserted.

Nailing a sunscreen’s sensorial aspects is essential to compliance, according to Tracy Desmarteaux, the medical aesthetician at Biophora, a brand that’s new to the US market.

“The winning combination to achieve great aesthetics and compliance is three-fold—offering extraordinary state-of-the-art products, a simple daily-use regimen that customers can stick to, and providing expert supervision by a physician or medical aesthetician. Being of constant support while educating your patients and clients keeps the sunscreen message front and center. This means their skin is going to be protected so in turn, their treatment goals can be reached and more importantly, maintained,” Desmarteaux told Happi.

Biophora offers both chemical and natural physical-barrier sunscreens.

“A substantial benefit of chemical compounds formulations is their smaller molecular structure making them thinner and easier to blend—more convenient for everyday use,” said Desmarteaux.

Biophora’s sun formulations include a Daily Protection SPF30, Advanced Protection SPF45 and Biophora Tinted Mineral SPF30.

Indie brand Live Tinted continues to up its sunscreen game, too.  Last year, the brand launched Hueguard Invisible Sunscreen Stick. More recently, in February, it rolled out Hueguard Skin Tint SPF 50 in 10 inclusive shades. The formulas deliver what customers had been requesting: a lightweight mineral SPF 50 with light-medium, buildable coverage for every day, according to Founder Deepica Mutyala.

“Launching the new Hueguard Skin Tint is such a full-circle moment for me,” said Mutyala. “At the very beginning of Live Tinted, I wanted to launch a mineral SPF with no white cast. So many people told me not to do it—that it was not possible, too difficult for a brand our size, or just too expensive. I just knew I wanted to do it, so I kept going, and I’m so glad that I didn’t listen. Our Hueguard 3-in-1 Mineral SPF 30 is one of our most-loved, best-selling products to this day.”

She called Hueguard Skin Tint the perfect next step for the brand she founded in 2018.

The formula contains actives to hydrate, protect and smooth skin in lightweight gel cream texture that is water- and sweat-resistant with no white cast. The product offers mineral SPF protection for up to 80 minutes after application. Key components include non-nano zinc oxide; butterfly bush flower extract, which provides antioxidant protection against UVA damage, prevents the breakdown of collagen, and encourages skin repair; Indian gooseberry to help diminish pigmentation and re-establish a natural radiance on skin; and hyaluronic acid and sea buckthorn oil which deliver hydration, moisture retention and boost collagen production.

“All of these ingredients together make this formula one of my favorites,” Mutyala told Happi.

What’s more, it provides a solution for consumers looking for inclusive products.

According to Mutyala, consumers, especially those with darker skin tones, want an SPF that doesn’t have a white cast, so they can truly feel confident wearing and re-applying it.

“That’s why I’m beyond excited that we’re able to get this skin tint into people’s hands that does have that mineral SPF 50 protection and no white cast coverage in gorgeous shades that flex to beautiful skin tones of all hues,” she said. “I want our community to be heard and seen when it comes to SPF products that are created with them in mind.”

For dermatologists and skin health advocates, all skin tones need proper protection from UVA/UVB. Their end game is to get all consumers to protect their skin no matter the means of delivery (lotion vs. multi-benefit serum) nor the mechanism.

As Dr. Zubritsky responded when beauty editors and influencers asked her whether a physical or chemical filter was preferred, she said: “Whatever filter you enjoy using is the right filter.” 

Looking for new ingredients? See below!

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New Sun Care Ingredients

Below are new sun care ingredients introduced by industry suppliers during the past 12 months. For more information on the products listed, contact the company directly using the links provided.

Coast Southwest
Irving, TX
info@coastsouthwest.com
coastsouthwest.com

Olivatis 12C
INCI: Olive Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Pentaoleate
End Use: Sunscreens, lip gloss, lipstick  and baby products
Use Level: 2-8%
Olivatis 12C is a nature-based ingredient derived entirely from vegetable raw materials. It is an innovative PEG-free and palm-free, liquid crystal-promoting, nonionic, W/O emulsifier. Emulsions formulated with Olivatis 12C are easily absorbed and rich in natural oily substances without being greasy or sticky.

EndiMoist 3OS
INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil (and) Hydrogenated Castor Oil
End Use: Anhydrous or emulsion-based lotions or creams; BB creams, CC creams, tinted moisturizers
Use Level: 0.1-2%
EndiMoist 3OS is a mixture of three different molecular weights of Sodium Hyaluronate dispersed in botanic oils via a unique microsphere technology which allows it to be easily incorporated into oil-based formulations. Its three-dimensional hydrating and smoothing activity is ideal for lip care and face care applications.

Endicare C-EAA
INCI: 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
End Use: Emulsion-based lotion or cream; BB creams, CC creams, tinted moisturizers for anti-oxidation, skin brightening and anti-aging benefits
Use Level: 0.1-0.5%
Endicare C-EAA is a lipophilic derivative of water-soluble Vitamin C. It is beneficial for premium skin care products, enhancing anti-aging properties while evening skin tone. It has both hydrophilic and lipophilic characteristics, giving it the flexibility to be used in oil-based, water-based, or emulsified products.

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DSM-Firmenich
na.dsm-personal-care@dsm-firmenich.com
www.dsm-firmenich.com

Parsol Shield
INCI: Bemotrizinol
DSM-Firmenich is poised to make a significant breakthrough in sun care technology with the impending launch of Parsol Shield, the first UV filter to be introduced in the US market in over 24 years. Awaiting GRASE approval, Parsol Shield represents a major advancement in the US UV market. It’s not just about bringing a new product to market; it’s about redefining sun protection standards. Parsol Shield is the most efficient UVA-UVB filter with broad-spectrum performance, even at low levels. And notably, Parsol Shield boasts an excellent eco-profile, enabling the creation of more sustainable sunscreens and facilitating the development of formulations suitable for different skin types.

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Lubrizol Life Science
Cleveland, OH
www.lubrizol.com/beauty

Pemupur Start polymer
INCI: Microcrystalline cellulose (and) Sphingomonas ferment extract (and) Cellulose gum.
End Use: Fluid & sprayable O/W emulsions (skin care, sun care, makeup)
Use Level: 0.5-1% wt. (as supplied), 100% TS powder
A unique natural-derived polymeric emulsifier providing excellent stabilization capabilities at low use level while offering a fresh and quick break sensory. Easy to use and cold/hot processable, NOC 96% (ISO 16128), Readily biodegradable (OECD 301 B).

Sunhancer Eco SPF booster
INCI: Copernicia Cerifera Wax (and) Oryza Sativa Wax
End Use: Sunscreens, SPF booster
Use Level: 3-5%
SPF booster composed of micronized particles made from a blend of naturally derived and sustainably sourced waxes. It enables formulators to reduce the proportion of UV filter ingredients while maintaining the same level of protection. NOC 100% (ISO 16128), Inherently biodegradable.

Oilkemia Alpha POF polymer
INCI: Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
End Use: Oil soluble rheology modifier for sun care applications
Use Level: 0.3-9.0 % wt (as supplied)
Oil soluble rheology modifier providing excellent thickening efficiency, clarity, suspension and stability, with a pleasant non-tacky feel. It helps to create a wide variety of textures from thin non-dripping systems to lotions, thick creams and gels, and even solid sticks.

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Nouryon
Radnor, PA
PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com
www.nouryon.com

SolAmaze Natural
INCI: Diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride
Use level: 2-5% active. End Use: Sunscreen emulsions, sticks, anhydrous products, color cosmetics, hair care
A natural film-former for water resistance.Dermacryl X
INCI: Acrylates copolymer
Use level: 2-4% active. End Use: Sunscreen emulsions
Excellent film former for water resistance.

Amaze Nordic Barley
INCI: Hordeum vulgare seed flour
Use Level: 1-10%
End Use: Sunscreen emulsions, skin care, haircare/dry shampoo, color cosmetics
A strong performing aesthetic modifier that helps to improve skin feel

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SurfaTech Corporation
770-876-6983
surfaconnect@surfatech.com
https://www.surfatech.com/

CosmoSurf DDG-28
INCI: Bis-Dodecylhexyldecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer
End Use: For use in mineral sunscreen, lotion, spray and cream formulations
Use Level: 3.00-5.00 %/wt
Our natural based, biodegradable, microparticle free, CosmoSurf DDG-28 provides multi-functional performance as a primary dispersant for mineral sun care formulations while also providing 80-minute emersion, very water-resistant claims. CosmoSurf DDG-28 will deliver a soft silky spread that is ideal for SPF facial care products that is ideal in replacing traditional synthetic ingredients.

CosmoSurf DDG-20
INCI: bis-octyldodecyl dimer dilinoleate/ propanediol copolymer
End Use: For use in mineral sunscreen, lotion, spray and cream formulations 
Use Level: 3.00-5.00 %/wt
Our natural based, biodegradable, microparticle free , CosmoSurf DDG-20 provides multi-functional performance as a primary dispersant for mineral sun care formulations while also providing 80-minute emersion, very water-resistant claims. CosmoSurf DDG-20  is ideal for sun screen spray formulations that require an  excellent dispersion properties to help manage the desired final viscosity In addition the CosmoSurf DDG-20 will deliver a soft silky spread.

SurfaCare S
INCI: Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides
End Use: For use in mineral and chemical  sunscreen, lotion, and cream formulations
Use Level: 4.00-6.00 %/wt
A new oil gelling agent, designed to offer exceptional thickening properties for anhydrous and emulsion-based formulations requiring enhanced stabilizing attributes without compromising the desired sensory profile.  SurfaCare S will allow the formulator to increase the viscosity of the formulations oil phase to enhance product stability while reducing the dependency on traditional wax ingredients.

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Univar Solutions
Downers Grove, IL
getstarted@univarsolutions.com
univarsolutions.com

SunSpheres Bio SPF Booster
INCI: Microcrystalline cellulose
End Use: sun care/sunscreen. Use Level: 1.5% is recommended as the starting use level. (High use level over 3% may result in reduced performance.)
SunSpheres Bio SPF Booster is a bio-based SPF booster built from a unique crystalline cellulose technology of natural origin that enables greater efficiency. The crystalline cellulose raises the UV protection and works equally well with organic and inorganic actives. It can be used in a wide range of sun care and daily wear SPF products containing UV active ingredients: organic and inorganic UVA & UVB actives; oil-in-water, water-in-oil, and water-in-silicone systems; cold- and hot-processable systems; cream & lotion formulations; makeup (foundation, BB creams, etc.).

Parsol Shield
INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine End Use: SPF for body and face, in various formats (cream, spray, stick, lotion)
Use Level: Based on global regulatory guidelines, with some regions at 3% and others up to 10%.
Parsol Shield is an efficient UVA-UVB filter with broad-spectrum performance used in many global regions. With an excellent eco-profile, it enables the creation of sustainable sunscreens suitable for different skin types. Awaiting GRASE approval by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA).