Top Shelf

The beauty industry is famous for selling hope in a jar. But today’s consumers don’t go blind into the process. They are very much invested in what’s listed on the jar. They’re looking closely at labels and when an ingredient captures their fancy, they will seek out information online before taking the plunge and buying products and promises.

In today’s competitive beauty market, there is a steady stream of raw materials touted as the “next big thing.” Brands are constantly talking up new ingredients to satisfy the consumer’s seemingly insatiable appetite for beauty products that provide better results and fit their individual needs.

“Consumers across the globe are pursuing a set of personalized wellness goals (for more on wellness trends, read this month's Anti-Aging & Wellness Corner). In the US, 69% of women are motivated/or would be motivated to live a natural lifestyle to improve overall health. Skin care has become an integral part of the overall health and wellness regimen,” noted David Tyrell, global skin care analyst with Mintel.

Transparency and safety are two big factors influencing how consumers buy products, and in turn, how companies formulate.

“Consumer’s distrust of government institutions and big business increases each year, and they are demanding product transparency,” explained Tyrell. “The younger consumers are seeking information online. They want to know details about the ingredients. Are they safe? What do they do? Why are they included in the formula?”

In response, Tyrell said more skin care brands are likely to promote concentrated active ingredient formulas that have fewer, yet familiar, ingredients.

“Overall, consumers are looking for safe ingredients,” Tyrell told Happi. “Many seek familiar ingredients that helps explain the growing popularity of foods in beauty products. Expect to see more food ingredients from across the globe transition into skin care formulas with a focus on use of familiar foods for that given country/region.”

Some of the hot ingredients on Mintel’s radar include:

• Probiotic fermented ingredients, which will gain greater popularity for use in skin care. More consumers are drawn to the health benefits of oral probiotics to improve digestive issues and there is anecdotal data on the use of probiotics to improve mood too. Brands will continue to promote use of probiotic fermented ingredients to nourish, moisturize and protect the skin.
• Matcha (green tea powder), which has become a popular and well-recognized tea around the world. The ingredient has high antioxidant activity (17 times more than blueberries) and five times more of the anti-stress compound L-theanine than green tea. According to Tyrell, the familiar matcha ingredient is a great addition to skin care formulas designed to protect the skin against environmental insults.
• New, natural sources of vitamin C and Australian Beauty (A-Beauty) ingredients. Examples include Desert lime (a natural vitamin C source, this plant adapts to extremes in temperature and salinity and is drought resistant); Kakadu plum (which has 100 times more vitamin C than an orange); and Quandong (a hearty desert fruit high in vitamin C that is making in-roads into facial skin care in the West).

Discovery Phase
But finding a new ingredient takes time and resources. According to Katy Muenter, director of product development for Eminence Organic Skin Care, the quest entails a combination of thorough market research, customer feedback, trend analysis, and new innovations in ingredient availability and efficacy.

“We undergo extensive research and testing, working hand in hand with the formulators going through up to 25 different iterations of each product before deciding on the final product to ensure the efficacy of the active ingredients. We do this to be completely confident our product is of top quality and provides results,” she told Happi.

One hero ingredient at Eminence Organics is marine algae. Its Marine Flower Peptide Serum and Marine Flower Peptide Eye Cream contain globally and sustainably sourced algae from diverse environments including hot springs, the ocean and lakes.

“These different algae are specialized to survive in these different environments, and as a result contain unique compounds with unique benefits to the skin. When combined, the algae work together to deliver a high concentration of different nutrients, minerals and amino acids while effectively reducing the appearance of fine lines and improving hydration,” said Muenter.

“There are endless possibilities to discover new types of algae for use in skin care,” she said, citing her brand’s recently launched Stone Crop Body Contouring Cream which uses a new type of microalgae extract proven to help reduce the appearance of cellulite. “But of course, the opportunity to discover and innovate applies to all ingredients. As science, research and technology continues to evolve, so will our skin care.”

Also inspired by the wonders of nature is Charlotte Tilbury. The beauty brand’s Airbrush Flawless Foundation contains moss technology that is proven to enhance the cell nucleus function for resilient skin; enable skin to adapt to environmental changes; refine skin and create a flawless complexion; and improve skin moisture.

In a similar vein, Dermalogica’s new Phyto-Nature Firming Serum combines science and nature by harnessing the power of biomimicry. The dual-phase formulation is said to flash-firm, lift and revitalize skin, working to reactivate the nature of younger-looking skin and turn back the clock on previous exposomic damage. The firming phase is powered by biomimetic peptides which help firm skin and reinforce skin defenses against exposome-driven aging, while the lifting phase is powered by what the brand calls “modern plant-based technology and ancient botanical wisdom.”

Key ingredients include Amazonian camu camu, which has 60 times more vitamin C than an orange and has been wild-harvested by indigenous tribes for more than 700 years; Moroccan rockrose extract, derived from a resilient plant that has the ability to germinate even after burning, which helps neutralize skin-damaging free radicals; and caffeic acid from Madagascar green coffee bean, a phyto-active that works with skin’s microbiome to help decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Acaderma is a cosmeceutical brand founded by Dr. Shuting Hu, the winner of The International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists 2013 Henry Maso Young Cosmetic Scientist Award for her research entitled “Activity and mechanism of natural resorcinol type phenolics from the twigs of Cudrania tricuspidata as skin whitening agents.” Last year, she was named a Sephora Accelerate member, the retailer’s program to build the future of innovative female beauty entrepreneurs around the world. Acaderma utilizes several unique ingredients including ProPhagy, a mixture of plant flavones discovered from cherry tomato. ProPhagy is 2.5 times as potent as vitamin C in melanocytes at the same concentration, and is much more stable, too.

“More interestingly, ProPhagy was found to scavenge free radicals and inflammatory factors, which results in wrinkles and fine lines. Rather than antioxidant or other traditional pathways, the amazing efficacy of ProPhagy is mainly due to a novel mechanism called autophagy. Autophagy is a natural, regulated mechanism in cells to cleanse waste and recycle old parts,” Hu told Happi.

Acaderma’s current range includes The Oasis, billed as a barrier booster;  Lunar Glow Serum; Star Light spot corrector; Chrono Wrap, described as restoring essence; and Invisible Shield, a defense serum.

Vichy Laboratories has expanded its LiftActiv anti-aging line with new LiftActiv Peptide-C Anti Aging Moisturizer, which is designed to help correct multiple signs of aging including wrinkles, dull skin, loss of contour definition and loss of firmness. With a rich, creamy texture, this anti-aging moisturizer is said to visibly reduce the signs of collagen loss on skin. Vichy’s Peptide-C combines phyto peptides with vitamin C, and its proprietary mineralizing water to help strengthen the skin barrier and protect against everyday aggressors, creating a triple threat against signs of aging, according to the brand.

Some of the newest SKUs at Lancôme focus on a floral component. For instance, there’s new Lancôme Rose Milk Mist, which is formulated with hyaluronic acid and rose water to plump, hydrate, and even skin tone, and Lancôme’s Rose Sorbet Cryo-Mask, which contains salicylic acid, rose water and meadowsweet extract to instantly cool the skin, reduce the appearance of pores, and reveal smoother looking and feeling skin.

Clinique is tackling a specific skin issue with its Self-Heating Blackhead Extractor, a treatment that provides a 93% reduction in blackheads in six weeks. The formulation includes a blend of salicylic acid and glucosamine that clears dead surface skin cells to prevent future blackheads; diatomaceous earth, bamboo powder and pumice, which exfoliate and resurface skin’s texture; and stearyl glycyrrhetinate, which leaves skin feeling calm and comfortable, according to the Estée Lauder-owned brand.

Korean beauty brand Skin&Lab is formulating with Centella asiatica, better known as cica. This powerful herbal plant from the Apiaceae family is incorporated into the company’s Medicica line, which includes cleanser, toner, cream and spot treatment. Cica is especially beneficial for those with sensitive, dry, itchy, red and acne-prone skin as it is rich in antioxidants. It increases the skin’s ability to repair damage and provides protection from further irritation. In addition, this ingredient boosts “microcirculation” in the skin, helping it to absorb increased amounts of vitamins, nutrients, oxygen and minerals. Cica is also said to stimulate cell metabolism, reduce wrinkles and scars, and promote faster wound healing in chronic skin conditions and after surgery, according to the company.

CBD Rising
Over the years, different ingredients have struck a chord with consumers—think alpha and beta hydroxy acids in the mid-1990s. Today, one of the hottest materials is cannabinoid (CBD).  There’s been a steady stream of new launches, and analysts have high hopes for the component.

“CBD is already becoming well-known in the beauty space as the next big trend. CBD has the potential to be more significant and have more staying power, or ‘stickiness’ than trends like K-Beauty and J-Beauty because it is part of the larger health and wellness movement and general shift in shopper behavior toward natural beauty,” noted Tiffany Hogan, a Kantar analyst who covers beauty. “Coupled with its potential medicinal benefits, CBD could prove to be a significant disruptor in the beauty industry if its medicinal benefits are substantiated in the products that claim to contain the cannabinoid itself.”

Several beauty brands have launched cannabis infused product lines, however not all contain CBD, according to Kantar analyst Catherine Lang.

“Kiehl’s Since 1851, First Aid Beauty, Peter Thomas Roth, Milk Makeup and long-standing player Hempz all have hemp seed oil products, but it is important to note that hemp seed oil/cannabis seed oil is not actually CBD, nor does it have the same properties as the cannabinoid. These brands have done well to capitalize on the imagery and interest in CBD-based products, without containing any CBD and have already garnered placement at retailers such as Ulta and Sephora,” she said.

Companies such as Cannuka, Lord Jones, The Good Patch, Foria and Vertly contain either hemp-derived CBD or full-spectrum CBD from the marijuana plant. Others, such Herbivore, are launching select products featuring hemp-derived CBD. But according to Lang, “the marketplace is still wide open, given the current regulatory environment with brands blurring distinction from a marketing (or trend based approach) with products that don’t actually contain cannabinoids and brands looking to be leaders (despite a lack of quality standards) in CBD and full-spectrum beauty retailing.”

Wide open, but there’s plenty more traffic. More brands are tapping into zeitgeist (see sidebar below) and retailers seem anxious to stock options. For instance, LA-based CBD brand Sagely Naturals was picked up by Ulta in July. The move makes Sagely’s Relief & Recovery Cream, roll-on and spray formats, which feature CBD and essential oils for pain relief, available in 500-plus Ulta stores and online.

In a new deal, Uncle Bud’s Hemp launched its CBD range exclusively at The Vitamin Shoppe. The move makes Uncle Bud’s the sole CBD-infused personal care brand across more than 770 Vitamin Shoppes in the US. In addition to its vast array of personal care products in the Uncle Bud range, Vitamin Shoppe consumers get access to the company’s Miss Bud beauty line, too.

“At The Vitamin Shoppe, we continually strive to bring our customers innovative new products with exceptional quality. As we expand both our ingestible and topical CBD hemp extract offerings to become the most trusted destination for CBD hemp extract and education, we’re proud to be partnering with Uncle Bud’s on this exciting line of personal care products,” Sharon Leite, CEO of The Vitamin Shoppe, said in a press statement. “Adding Uncle Bud’s and Miss Bud’s to our assortment reflects our mission to provide our customers with the most trusted solutions, guidance and services to help them become their best selves, however they define it.”

All of Uncle Bud’s products feature CanatrexPlus, a proprietary CBD-infused formula of pure organic hemp seed oil combined with natural oils and other ingredients, which the company says is formulated in US-based, FDA-approved facilities.

Supply Side
Where a company sources CBD ingredients is important; and brands are smart to do their due diligence when searching for a supply partner.

“We took a long time to find a reliable partner from where to source the CBD,” said Felipe Vasconcelos, CEO of Atomic Beauty, which touts CBD-enhanced lip products (see side bar, p. 70), and at press time was ready to roll out additional makeup products containing the hot ingredient.

“Quality is very important to us, which is why we have our own lab and make our own products. Taking steps of knowing exactly where the CBD was coming from, and that it’s tested at a reputable lab, are all part of creating a quality process. The process was time-consuming but very necessary,” he said.

Finding a reliable supplier was a top priority for Dan Fryda, president of Spa Technologies International, which recently created a CBD-infused product for the Civana Spa Resort. Guests at Civana, Carefree, AZ can experience the Cooling CBD Leg & Foot Soother, a treatment that features its Arnica Cooling Gel with CBD Oil (formulated by Spa Technologies). Besides the highly concentrated CBD oil, the formulation contains menthol, camphor, porphyra red algae, hibiscus flower extract (a source of pyruvic acid and bioflavonoids to strengthen the connective tissue matrix for firm skin), laminaria algae (a source of L-Fucose for skin firmness), lithothamnium alga (a source of calcium and magnesium for reducing bloat) and rosemary and peppermint essential oils.

Areas of Concern
Fryda is bullish about CBD’s potential—when it is in the right formulation and used for the right indications—but he is concerned by how the ingredient is popping up everywhere, at all price points and varied percentage levels, and with little guidance for consumers.

“Consumers aren’t chemists,” Fryda told Happi.

In fact, he likened rising percentages of CBD in formulations to the “SPF wars” of past years. “It is a bit like the Wild West right now,” he said.

No doubt regulatory agencies are watching the CBD boom. In July, the US Food and Drug Administration issued a warning letter to Curaleaf, Inc., Wakefield, MA, related to the sale of CBD tinctures and vape pens as well as CBD lotion and pain-relief patches.

CBD launches remain fast and furious, but some warn it might not be the right ingredient for every company.

“The cannabis, and in turn CBD industry, is very much focused on conveying authenticity and quality in terms of new products and category emergence. I don’t think any trend is something that is right for “every” beauty brand to execute, but it is something that each brand should be aware of as it has the potential to change the competitive landscape significantly by bringing in new solutions,” said Lang of Kantar. “Brands and retailers should consider if CBD products are a natural integration to their product lines and align with brand values and messaging in order to convey a sense of transparency to shoppers. This sense of mutual understanding that new product integration, inclusive of CBD, aligns with the brand or retailer’s longer term goals for natural beauty care and/or a shift toward an overall health and wellness approach to beauty.”

Beauty and personal care executives must be forward thinkers and keep their eyes on macro trends that will influence the ingredients they select for their formulations. Concepts such as clean beauty, free-from and vegan will influence ingredients moving forward, according to industry observers.

“Clean beauty mentions have skyrocketed on social media over the last year both in US and globally and US retailers across the spectrum are promoting clean beauty from specialty retailers like Credo Beauty, Follain, Detox Market and Sephora to mass (Target) and pharmacy (CVS). Simply, the clean term means the ingredients do no harm; they can be natural, organic or synthetic,” said Tyrell of Mintel.
In addition, groups such as the Environmental Working Group hold sway over consumers when it comes to ingredients.

With so much at stake, brands need a sound strategy when it comes to ingredient selection. But no matter how hot a new ingredient trend may be, consumers are likely to spot brands that are only paying it lip service.

Noted Tyrell, “Increasingly, though, consumers have concerns over ‘fakes’ and it will be incumbent upon brands to assure the authenticity of the ingredients.” 

Coming of Age in the age of cannabidiol-based beauty • CBD-, hemp- and cannabis-infused beauty and personal care products are coming to market at a rapid pace. Here’s a look at some recent launches and players in the space. Atomic Makeup has added new CBD-enhanced lip glosses and liquid lipsticks in which CBD provides moisturizing benefits. The lip SKUs contain 10mg of CBD oil from hemp plant, according to the company. “With CBD makeup, you get all the great benefits that CBD has to offer for skin care, in addition to looking great. CBD has amazing antioxidant properties that are more powerful than vitamins C and E. It also has known antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties that are a must for any skin care routine. Many of our products also have hemp seed oil, which is rich in vitamins and is a fantastic moisturizer. Wearing most makeup daily without proper skin care may damage the skin over time. CBD makeup completely turns that concept on its head—when you wear CBD makeup, you are doing something extremely beneficial to your skin,” said Atomic Makeup CEO Felipe Vasconcelos. Milk Makeup’s Kush Growhouse Lash + Brow serum is said to boost and nourish hair for longer-, fuller-looking lashes and brows. It contains hemp-derived cannabis seed extract, aloe, B5 and quinoa. Garden of Life, Palm Beach Gardens, FL, has added a cannabidiol line that is THC-Free Certified by Labdoor, which the company says provides assurance for consumers seeking CBD products without psychoactive effects. Made from broad spectrum whole hemp extract, Garden of Life CBD formulas contain a naturally-occurring complex of cannabinoids, terpenes and fatty acids without tetrahydrocannabinol. To create the CBD line, Garden of Life worked with David Perlmutter, MD, a neurologist and New York Times best-selling author. Garden of Life Options include Dr. Formulated CBD + Youthful Skin Liquid Drops, which deliver 15mg of CBD with organic lipowheat, a phytoceramide that plays a central role in preserving healthy-looking skin. Popular on Amazon, Sky Organics is also expanding into the CBD sphere with Sky Organics CBD, which it says combines 100% all-natural ingredients with broad spectrum cannabidiol. Products, which include formulations for face, body, bath, hair and personal care, will be sold in select Bed Bath & Beyond and Harmon Face Value stores and Weis Markets. Vegamour, a vegan wellness company, is rolling out a full line of CBD serums  that are said to promote healthy hair growth for the scalp, lash and brow. The topical products include serums that are formulated with full spectrum, micro-encapsulated CBD. A proprietary process decreases the size of the CBD molecules by more than 1,000%, so particles penetrate the skin and hair roots more deeply and deliver increased efficacy, according to the company. “Our research has shown that CBD has inherent, clinically-proven actives that naturally work in tandem to stimulate healthy hair growth,” noted Vegamour CEO Dan Hodgdon, in a statement. “There are several companies that have announced CBD-infused beauty products as a way to be part of the CBD trend, but they often aren’t sourced or manufactured correctly and in many cases, they’re incorporated into formulations which don’t allow the CBD to actually penetrate the skin and thus consumers are receiving little-to-no benefit. Our first-to-market topical line of CBD serums is designed to penetrate the skin and has proven to stimulate hair growth by increasing blood flow around the hair follicles while reducing inflammation.” And if one needs further evidence that the CBD craze has no end, here’s proof: at the Indie Beauty Expo last month in New York City, Bawdy Beauty Butt Masks announced its newest SKU—a CBD Butt Mask.