Consumer priorities on health and sustainability are challenging formulators to develop stable skin and sun care formulations that are naturally derived without sacrificing on the refreshing sensory experience. Consumers still want to enjoy a fresh feel upon application, leading to a soft, non-sticky afterfeel with a low amount of residue.
 
PemuPur™ START polymer meets consumer’s expectations as a high-performing, natural-derived polymeric emulsifier. Its name promises excellent STA-bility and R-efreshing T-exture, making it a grounded solution to START building Oil-in-Water emulsions.
 
The polymer provides excellent emulsion stabilization at low use levels (0.5-1.0 wt%) and up to 50% oil content, limiting the need for co-emulsifiers. An emulsion with 20% of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and 0.7% of PemuPur™ START polymer is stable for 4 weeks at 25°C and 4 weeks at 50°C.
 
Its stabilization mechanism is based on two mechanisms acting jointly to prevent coalescence of the oil droplets and eliminate creaming: a 3-D network and Pickering emulsion. The microgel network provides the dominant contribution to suspension and stabilization.
 
PemuPur™ START polymer enables the creation of low-viscosity systems (<5000 mPa∙s), even with 50% of oil in the internal phase, offering you the flexibility to formulate emollient-rich lotions. It can be combined with thickeners to reach higher viscosity and to create cream-like textures.
 
The shear thinning rheological behavior of our PemuPur™ START polymer provides a fluid and sprayable texture, without the lumpy appearance of other natural alternatives. It enables a light and fresh quick break sensory, making it ideal for low-viscosity skin and sun care formulations. Consumers enjoy a fresh feel upon application, leading to a soft, non-sticky afterfeel with a low amount of residue.
 
Its limited surface activity enables to create mild emulsions suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. For more challenging formulations, the addition of low levels of nonionic co-emulsifiers with medium to high HLB value, or anionic co-emulsifiers, reduces the oil droplet size and further improves the emulsion stability.
 
PemuPur™ START polymer has a Renewable Carbon Index of 0.96, according to ISO 16128 and is readily biodegradable (OECD 301B).