Retinol is a “hero” ingredient, famous for its multifunctional activity, however formulating with it has some drawbacks. Sederma’s new encapsulated retinol provides an effective cosmetic solution that addresses the specific challenges associated with retinol.

What is retinol? Retinol, also known as vitamin A, is a liposoluble retinoid, a group of natural and synthetic derivatives of vitamin A. It is an essential nutrient involved in many biological functions such as embryogenesis, bone growth, immune system, reproduction, eyesight and cell cycle. In its natural form, vitamin A exists in animal sources as preformed vitamin A (retinol and retinyl esters) and as provitamin A (carotenoids and specifically beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, and beta-cryptoxanthin) in vegetable sources.

How does retinol work in the skin? Retinol’s multi-functional activity helps skin appear healthy, glowy and smooth. It speeds up cell renewal, modulates cell metabolism, enhances the neosynthesis of extracellular matrix components (collagen, GAG…) and reduces the production of ECM degradation enzymes and melanin. As a result, this “hero ingredient” reinforces the skin’s barrier, visibly reduces wrinkles and blemishes, brightens skin and promotes hair growth.

Retinol: a tricky ingredient. Retinol is highly subject to various chemical changes and depending on the environmental conditions (light, temperature, oxygen, pH, solvents…), it can breakdown, form free radicals, reactive oxygen species, and other metabolites, that diminish its efficacy.

What retinol issues does the Sederma’s encapsulated retinol solve? Under certain conditions retinol is unstable and must be handled and stored under specific conditions. This instability reduces its bioavailability and efficacy. There is also a skin irritation potential commonly known as retinol burn or retinisation. Depending on the skin type and concentration retinol burn may occur when first used, resulting in irritant contact dermatitis, also known as retinoid dermatitis. Sederma’s new hero encapsulated retinol, ReVitAlide™, is a water dispersible suspension designed to respond to the market demand for a stable, easy-to-formulate, highly bioavailable and well-tolerated retinol.

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