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Clean Beauty Is a New Ecosystem Reshaping Innovation

Around the world, consumers’ interest in clean and sustainable are trumping quality and cost, say experts at MakeUp in New York.

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By: Lianna Albrizio

Associate Editor

MakeUp in New York’s 11th annual event at the Jacob K. Javits Center in New York City on Sept. 14 and 15 saw another successful turnout with more than 3,400 participants from 36 countries and well over 100 makeup and skincare suppliers taking the showroom floor. 

The skincare and makeup brands welcomed comprised 50% legacy brands, 45% indie brands and 5% DNVB. The current trend towards cosmetic hybridization was also evident; more than 83% of visitors were interested in both skincare and makeup. 
 
The turnout not only affirmed the recovery of the beauty industry from Covid-19, but the pandemic gave rise to the current clean beauty movement. Conscious consumption and a broader focus on wellness in regards to the safety of people and planet during the covid-19 pandemic accelerated a so-called “boom” in the clean beauty market. 
 
This new ecosystem is reshaping innovation, and propelling brands to stay ahead of the curve when it comes to being the most compelling to the Gen Z-aged consumer and up.
 
“The growth in clean and sustainable products has outpaced total beauty,” said Leila Rochet, chief inspiration officer of Cosmetics Inspiration and Creation, a forecasting consultancy based in Paris. “We see that consumers are more and more looking for better-for-me products, but also better for all products.”
 
According to Spate, a New York City-based data-driven company that tracks the latest beauty trends of what consumers are searching for on Google, clean beauty is currently seeing an uptick in searches, with consumers typing in specific key words like “circular economy” (+12.2%) and “ethical” (+11.4%) and “biodegradable” (+21.3%) to make more educated purchasing decisions. In fact, consumers’ interest in clean and sustainable are trumping quality and cost. As many as 65% of Gen Z-aged consumers are likely to purchase a product described as “clean,” Rochet said. 

Inspirational Themes


Leila Rochet, chief inspiration officer of  Cosmetics Inspiration and Creation.
Four themes inspired around the clean beauty market are waste efficiency, engineered nature, open origin and biodiversity beauty. Waste efficiency includes leverage of a regenerative culture, ingredient upcycling, manufacturing waste and water optimal formulations. 
 
“We’ve been seeing a lot of products using upcycling ingredients, especially in skincare in the food industry,” said Rochet. “What’s important is that when you upcycle a product, you don’t deplete too much energy to make it. That’s still a very big challenge for some ingredient suppliers.”
 
Engineered nature includes biotechnology or modern farming, tinctural colors and ingredient preserving solutions (i.e. Freeze dry). Open origin involves full transparency and the change from “Made In” to “Sourced From.” Biodiversity beauty includes ensuring nature longevity and favoring community development. 

Cultural Differences in Clean Beauty

France is rooted in nature, Rochet said, and that is why ingredient transparency is paramount for consumers there. She said 30% of French people trust that the beauty industry guarantees cosmetic products can be used without risk. Apps in which consumers trace formulations are also garnering success, with some 21 million users in France. Driving the so-called “deep green revolution” to develop radically clean solutions that benefit people and planet are eco-native brands. This new beauty ecosystem will thus entail ultra-transparent sourcing, new upcycled ingredients, regenerative packaging and dynamic, net-zero products that proactively give back to the planet. 
 
In separate presentation later that day, Alexander Kwapis, vice president of product design and development, FusionPKG, said the pillars of its products are reduce, refill and recycle. The brand’s packaging is made from recycled plastic waste and 100% PP PCR polyolefin mono-material airless packaging, and meets the preferred guidance of The Association of Plastic Recyclers.  
 
Clean beauty is also gaining traction in Korea. 
 
“A lot of things are happening in Korea around local upcycling, using some specific ingredients that are coming from traditional

Korean medicine,” said Rochet. “Interestingly also, they use EWG [Environmental Working Group] and announce it on their packaging.”
 
Simplicity, refinement, spontaneity and originality are values in Japanese culture with transparency in cosmetics a strong trend alongside recyclability as demonstrated by such popular brands as Shiseido.
 
“Japan used to be about heavy makeup and layers,” said Rochet, adding that skincare is taking precedence over color cosmetics with models wearing minimal makeup to embody this trend. 
 
“We’re seeing a very strong skintification of the category while moving toward clean,” she added. “Things are moving and it’s really important to see that eco native brands are really driving a deep green revolution, and it’s important for companies to keep up with what’s happening because they’re pushing the boundaries and developing radically clean solutions that are benefiting both people and planet. It’s a new way of doing business.”
 
In China, 54% of people are interested in sustainability; 42% say manufactures should take more responsibility for environmental protection, according to Rochet. 

Attendees also gained valuable insights into global beauty market trends thanks to the event's workshop program held in the Beauty Agora. Other presentations included “Color Cosmetic and Makeup Trends: Joy-care — Beauty in the Name of Pleasure;” “How to Scale an Indie Beauty Brand, Women in the Middle — How Beauty is Catering to the 40M women 50+;” “Natural Alternative to Synthetic Ingredients for Long Wear Cosmetics;” “Intelligent Hybrids — Engineered for Resilience;” and many others. 

MakeUp in NewYork Innovation & Trends Awards


Twenty-two new skincare and makeup products were nominated for this year's MakeUp in NewYork Innovation & Trends Awards with more than 100 products entered in the competition in the Accessory, Formulation, Full Service and Packaging categories. 

OPAC Beauty Pills won the Formulation IT Award. A “Fast Disgregation System” formulation technology (patent pending) which makes it possible to obtain a 0.14 solid tablet that, when in contact with water or a serum, transforms intoa. 2.2 ml cream-gel with a light and velvety texture.

A316 Royal Balm won the Full Service It Award. The lip balm in a stick pen is made of bio-based materials with a sensory formula that glides on the lips while providing a pulpy effect. Although completely transparent, its texture gives a unique pinkish tint to the lips that varies according to the skin's pH.

Taesung won the Packaging IT Award for its 100% PP Mono Material Airless, which has passed the leakage test with the same standard as a normal airless, i.e. 600 mmHg for 10 minutes. With a minimalist design, it also distinguishes itself from existing mono airless by its 0.5 cc dosage, ideal for creamy cosmetic formulas.

Regi was given the Coup De Coeur award for Cherry Smack, an emulsion transformed into a lipstick in stick form, which retains all the benefits of a cream or serum, and provides a lastisng sensation of freshness. Its formula, based on organic cherry extract (48%), glycerin and phytosterols, benefits from a process that allows the use of a very low pigment load (3%) while obtaining a high coverage.
 

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