In an age of misinformation, popular opinion clashes with medical opinion. The Skin of Color Society (SoCS) recently set the record straight on several skincare flash points during its 8th Annual Media Day. Leading dermatologists discussed TikTok trends, hyperpigmentation, UV protection and more. Elta MD, Johnson & Johnson and Leo Pharmaceuticals sponsored Media Day 2025.

SoCS President Dr. Nada Elbuluk MD welcomed reporters, noting that SoCS is the leading Society for skin of color patients, a growing cohort. According to US government data, the non-Hispanic white population will fall below 50% around 2045. The Hispanic population will represent 27% of the population by 2060. Blacks will account for 13.4% by the end of the century. The Asian population will grow to 14% by 2065. Most interesting, the multiracial population will become a majority-multicultural population by 2050.

Social media is an information conduit for consumers in the US and around the world. But not every trend is click-worthy. Dermatologists Dr. Brittany Oliver MD and Dr. Dhaval Bhanusali MD tackled the trends and weighed-in on “What’s Hot and What’s Not.”

First up? Beef tallow. Oliver voiced concerns about a lack of regulations and testing to ensure safety, efficacy and shelf stability of beef tallow.

“It’s not surprising that something oily will make your skin shiny and appear hydrated,” noted Oliver.

She explained that beef tallow has an expiration date. Where people obtain beef tallow is variable. It’s difficult to confirm how pure it is, what other ingredients it may contain, and it could spoil if improperly stored.

“Finally, in someone who already has acne or has oily skin, there is concern beef tallow can clog pores and cause blackheads.”

Oliver’s verdict on beef tallow? Not hot!

Bhanusali questioned the efficacy of rosemary oil used alone or in conjunction with 2% minoxidil to encourage growth or slow hair loss.

“The study that everybody cites is probably one of the weaker studies we’ve seen come across our desks,” he explained. “If I remember correctly, the sample size was very small. Some of the graphs were incorrect on the actual paper itself.”

Another issue is that few dermatologists recommend 2% minoxidil.

“Usually we do 5% minoxidil twice a day for men or 5% once a day for females,” said Bhanusali. “I love the TikToks and seeing people really try to figure out how to navigate their own health and care. (But) This is one of those that we would say Not Hot, given the lack of really judicious evidence and, honestly, just better options that are out there.”

Finally, Oliver and Bhanusali addressed the issue of Sephora Kids; aka, teen and tween skincare. This time of year, patients ask dermatologists, “what should I get my teen or tween for Christmas?” Oliver noted adolescent interest in the beauty industry seems to be at an all time high.

“That’s thanks in large part to social media, where trends and products go viral and prompt kids to collect skincare and use skincare like it’s a hobby,” said Oliver.

She’s concerned younger and younger children are targets of cosmetic marketing campaigns. Targeting leads to more spending, early spending on potentially expensive skincare products, and using, overusing or mixing products not even necessarily formulated for youthful skin, such as, peptides and retinols.

“Many derms can attest to the fact that we sometimes even see irritant reactions. And there’s this greater question of, you know, what message are we instilling in our kids, often young girls, about outward appearance and beauty standard?”

Target audiences are getting younger. Oliver pointed out the growing trend of sheet masks for toddlers.

“Having toddlers be the target audience for skincare, is a slippery slope and promotes an obsession with skincare and perfection,” she added.

Oliver is all for basic, simple, age-appropriate skincare routine, that includes a cleanser, a moisturizer if they have dry skin and sunscreen when they’re spending time outside.

“But too often I think kids get caught up in just doing too much, spending too much for no appreciable benefit, and sometimes even end up in our clinics with irritant rashes,” concluded Oliver.

Exosomes et al…

Bhanusali tackled another hot topic in skincare—the Xs and Os of exosomes.

“We live in a world where trends can travel really very quickly without really any evidence,” he observed. “A lot of people are utilizing the word exosome because it’s, you know, the ingredient of the moment. But I think there’s a lot more that we need to do and figure out.”

Bhanusali is conducting a hair and exosome study. But right now, it’s too soon to tell if exosomes are effective.

“I’m excited potentially. But I just don’t want to jump too far, too fast before the evidence proves as much” he concluded.

Hyperpigmentation occurs when patches of skin become darker than the surrounding skin due to an excess production of melanin. Oliver explained dermatologists use a multi-pronged approach to achieve better results. Popular ingredients include retinols, hydroquinone, vitamin C and sunscreen. But dermatologists always investigate new actives. Two of them are 2-Mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG) and Isobutylamido thiazolyl resorcinol (Thiamidol). 2-MNG may play a role in reducing or preventing the development of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Oliver explained 2-MNG binds to certain melanin precursors, leading to inhibition of eumelanin and pheomelanin synthesis without damaging melanocytes.

Thiamidol is a tyrosinase inhibitor. A small, but promising study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology looked at skin types four through six with acne related post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Subjects used a serum containing two milligrams over a 12-week period with statistically significant improvement from baseline.

“Again, a little early to tell. The last thing I want to do is overpromise. But it’s hard not to get excited about more tools in the toolkit, for such a stubborn problem. So I do plan on implementing this into my practices and seeing how patients like it,” concluded Oliver.

Bhanusali noted that when hydroquinone was taken off the shelves, it left a big void specifically in the skin of color category, because pigment is the first or second most common complaints among patients with skin of color.

“It is a little bit too soon to tell. But we’re hopeful,” said Bhanusali. “There are a lot of people, again, disproportionately in our space, that need better options. And so we’ll always encourage innovation to exist.”

They agreed that Artificial Intelligence use is expanding in dermatology. But they warned that, currently, AI can’t replace dermatologists.

“It’s a really scary place. We’re kind of evolving into it. It’s kind of free for all. One of the things we’ll kindly ask you guys (reporters) is to always make sure you reference board certified dermatologists,” said Oliver. “We are the true experts in skin disease, there’s a lot of people who position themselves as experts.”

Aesthetics in Skin of Color

Elbuluk and Dr. Nkem Ugonabo MD reviewed aesthetic procedures in skin of color.

Ugonabo noted that with non-Hispanic whites accounting for less than half of the US population by 2045, it is critical to modify treatments to properly address skin of color issues.

“Melanin rich skin, at the histology level, is a bit different. Melanosomes are larger, they’re more widely dispersed, and melanocytes themselves are more labial,” she explained. “And all of this just means that every procedure you do will inherently have a higher incidence, potentially, of dyschromias particularly post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.”

Aging and skin color is also different due to some of these structural functional differences. In most cases, aging leads to dark spots, elasticity and volume loss, and wrinkles. However, more melanated patients are more vulnerable to dispigmentation due to epidermal melanin concentration differences.

Yet, facial lines may be less noticeable due to the more complex dermis. That explains why, when it comes to skin aging issues, skin of color consumers are more concerned about the redistribution of soft tissue and the volume loss, as opposed to wrinkles in Caucasian women.

“The good news is all fillers types are safe for skin of color, both hyaluronic acid and biostimulatory fillers such as poly L-lactic acid and calcium hydroxyapatite have been show to be effective and safe in skin of color,” explained Ugonabo. “The key is to minimize bruising when possible.”

To minimize bruising, she recommended reducing the number of skin punctures to minimize post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and spacing out treatments of biostimulatory filler to avoid overcorrection.

Ugonabo detailed how lower face laxity can be treated with an ultrasound-based tightening device, coupled with a hyaluronic acid-based filler to the jawline. HA-based fillers also improve the appearance of under eye discoloration.

Elbuluk told attendances that chemical peels can be used safely in skin of color. Peel depth, determined by numerous factors, and include superficial (epidermis), medium (papillary dermis) and deep (reticular).

“We’re typically avoiding deep chemical peels in skin of color,” noted Elbuluk.

Indications include hyperpigmentation, melasma, acne, sun damage, texture and scars. Peels increase cell turnover, collagen production, fibroblast stimulation and melanin dispersion. Options include:

         • 35-70% Glycolic Acid;

         • 20-30% Salicylic Acid;

         • 40% Mandelic Acid;

         • Jessner Solution (14% Lactic Acid, 14% Salicylic Acid and Resorcinol);

         • 88% Lactic Acid | Phytic Acid

         • <15% Trichloracetic Acid

Regardless of the peel type or formula, dermatologists have very strict pre- and post-treatment instructions.

“That’s an important take home point for all procedures, including peels,” explained Elbuluk. “We want to make sure our patients are using sunscreen before the peels. If they’re prone to cold sores we have them on antivirals. If they’re really prone to hyperpigmentation, sometimes we use pre lightening before our peels and other procedures. Patient compliance is really important.”

When it comes to laser treatments, Ugonabo said special care is necessary for treating a person of color.

“When you have more melanin in the epidermis, it’s competing with whatever that target that the laser is aiming for,” she explained. “So if the laser accidentally affects your baseline melanin, that can lead to dyspigmentation.”

When choosing laser type, Ugonabo prefers non-ablative, fractionated for skin. For hair removal, she opts for long pulsed Nd:Yag. For more discreet spots, she chooses between Pico and Q-Switched lasers.

“Studies have shown that one of the biggest things that can cause hyperpigmentation for lasers is when these settings in particular have a density that is high,” warned Ugonabo. “If you’re dosing something like a fractal, you want to make sure the density is lower. If your patient has melanated skin that reduces the chances of having post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.”

Elbuluk turned the conversation to radio frequency (RF) and ultrasound. RF uses electrical energy to generate heat. It targets water in the tissue. Controlled thermal injury to the tissue leads to collagen and elastin stimulation, and ultimately, skin tightening.

High Intensity Frequency Ultrasound (HIFU) enables dermatologists to treat a level of the skin called the SMAS (Superficial Muscular App, Neurotic System). It allows significant lifting due to penetration depth. HIFU has applications in treating the face, brows, jowls and abdomen. But it can take months of treatment before patients see results.

Skin Cancer and Sunscreen

Dr. Rebecca Vasquez MD and Dr. Corey Hartman MD discussed skin cancer and sunscreen, including skin cancer risks and the role of UV protection in melanin-rich skin.

“Anyone can get skin cancer, no matter the color of their skin,” said Vasquez. “Melanin provides some protection, but not immunity.”

She noted that skin cancer is less common in persons of color, but often detected later. Delayed detection means more complex treatments and worse outcomes. She reviewed the types of skin cancer, noting Basal Cell Carcinoma (BCC) is the most common in the overall population. Squamous Cell Carcinoma (SCC) is, historically, the most common type in Black and Hispanic/Latin patients. Often found on legs, genital skin or scars, SCC is linked to chronic inflammation, HPV and weakened immunity. Melanoma is the deadliest form of skin cancer.

“It’s really important for our public health campaigns and media and education materials to accurate represent skin cancer across all skin tones, including darker skin tones,” said Vasquez. “There’s a role for patients with skin of color to share their experiences that others can potentially see themselves and think, ‘that story sounds so much like me, maybe I should get checked out.’”

“But we know that to get effective sun protection, we need to be in the range of 30-50,” he said.

Hartmann observed that melanin inherently provides an SPF factor of about 8-13, compared to SPF 3 for lighter skin.

People with more melanin-rich skin do develop skin cancer, and it’s often diagnosed at a later stage. Everyone knows, for example, that Jamaican Reggae Music Artist Bob Marley died from melanoma at 36.

“Historically, our textbooks have not always represented those with melanin-rich skin,” added Hartman. “A lot of my colleagues, particularly those of my age and older, may not have the benefit of these conversations that we’re sharing now.”

He reiterated that no skin tone is 100% effective at preventing the sun from penetrating, and damaging skin. Dark skin and light skin have nearly the same amount of melanocytes. Darker skin does not burn as easily as light skin, but it can still burn. And the long-term effects of that sun damage can appear, not just as skin cancer, but as hyperpigmentation. Darker skin patients with inflammatory skin condition, such as acne, rosacea and atopic dermatitis, are more likely to develop hyperpigmentation as a result of that inflammatory skin disorder.

Hartman reminded attendees of the importance of wearing sunscreen throughout the year, noting that UV radiation reaches skin even on cloudy days, during the winter, and through office and car windows.

“I tell patients to find a sunscreen they like, and establish a habits of using it every day so they don’t have to even think about it. Unfortunately, in America, we don’t have the best sunscreens in the world. But there is a new filter getting approved (Bemotrizinol) that will give us more options.”

Hyperpigmentation is the primary reason why skin of color patients see dermatologists. They’re more prone to developing hyperpigmentation after inflammatory skin conditions such as sunburn.

“I don’t want skin cancer, but I also don’t want to look old. That’s another reason I recommend patients wear sunscreen. Otherwise, you’re coming into the office and paying me a lot of money to help erase that sun damage,” said Hartman. “Lasers and other treatments put your skin in a vulnerable state. The last thing you want to do is pay a lot of money, have discomfort and downtime, and not get the full results of that treatment because you didn’t wear sunscreen. Applying SPF daily protects your results and prevents complications like post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.”

Pharmaceutical and Skin Care Brand Research

In addition to presentations from leading dermatologists, SOCS Media Day 2025 included an online poster session featuring research from pharmaceutical companies. Johnson & Johnson detailed results of a large-scale clinical study across all skin tones of those living with moderate to severe plaque and/or scalp psoriasis (PsO). Dubbed Visible, it illustrated dramatic skin clearance among Fitzpatrick III (95% PASI improvement) and VI (93% PASI improvement) skin types after 48 weeks of treatment with Tremfya (guselkumab).

Eli Lilly detailed the drivers of health in adults with Alopecia Areata, Atopic Dermatitis, Hidradenitis Suppurative and Psoriasis. Eli Lilly researchers highlighted need for individual patient-centered care and targeted approaches to treat and reach patients. They noted that social drivers of health, including health-related behaviors and socioeconomic and environmental factors, are non-medical factors estimated to determine up to 90% of all health outcomes.

Biogen provided an update on its Amethyst Study Design evaluating the efficacy and safety of Litifilimab in participants with cutaneous lupus erythematous (CLE). The phase 2/3 study is ongoing with a planned enrollment of 474 participants.

Leo Pharmaceuticals provided insights on atopic dermatitis and chronic hand eczema.

Two leading beauty brands also presented information.

A Clinique poster on New Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Clearing Serum highlighted the product formula which includes a proprietary brightening molecule, UP302 (Dianella Ensifolia), niacinamide and vitamin C. According to Clinique, it’s clinically proven to visibly reduce dark spots, including post-acne marks. It also reduces irritation that can trigger future dark spots. Specifically, the serum led to a 49% visible reduction in sun and age spots on lighter skin tones and up to a 56% visible reduction in post-acne mark intensity on deeper skin tones, according to Clinique.

EltaMD’s poster highlighted UV Clear Collection. The lightweight formula calms and protects skin prone to acne and rosacea. The formula contains zinc oxide (9%) and octinoxate (7.5%), niacinamide and vitamin E. The patent-pending formula is designed and proven to blend in with a sheer, no white cast finish on deeper skin tones, according to the company. It significantly improved skin pigmentation and evenness in just four weeks, according to EltaMD. Moreover, in a clinical study UV Clear improved skin discoloration (+38%), texture (+40%) and brightness (+45%) after 12 weeks.

To reach the Skin of Color Society, email info@skinofcolorsociety.org or visit the SoCS website.