Dear Valerie: I’m considering using exosomes in an upcoming project. Any pitfalls to look out for?

—Skin Fix

Dear Skin:

Buckle up, we are going to be seeing quite a bit of exosome launches in 2026! (You’ll have to be sure to check out the upcoming December issue of Happi to see my 2026 predictions, which includes exosomes.)

I recall hearing about exosomes way back in 2022, when a famous dermatologist had asked me to source exosomes for a project. Unfortunately, at the time, there weren’t any widely available sources that didn’t come from human or other mammalian mRNA. Also at the time, exosomes were primarily of interest to the medical community for wound healing and skin remodeling.

My feelings on exosomes are lukewarm. While I generally afford ingredients from medical literature with some credibility, the cosmetic industry’s perverse inclination to capitalize prematurely on any emerging research leaves me less than enthralled.

Exosomes are little vesicles that contain bioactive molecules, such as proteins and mRNA. These molecules are enwrapped in a lipid bilayer, which is useful for communicating with other organelles in cells. Exosomes play a huge role in the cell’s metabolic pathways, so it makes sense that topically applied exosomes could have some value.

In clinical studies where exosomes are injected or are aided into the dermis via microneedling, they work. FYI, consumer microneedling does not go that deep. But without any assistance, typically less than 1% of exosomes penetrate skin. When they do, they’re primarily found in the stratum corneum and stratum granulosum, the two outermost layers of the epidermis. You can’t do much wound healing or follicle stimulation there since those cells are keratinized and donezo, at least in terms of living metabolic processes.

As I mentioned, exosomes are historically derived from mammalian cells. Plant cells have exosomes too. These are the primary type vendors are introducing. Plant-derived exosomes have applications in inflammation reduction (which has been proven in some mouse models), collagen stimulation and reduction in fine lines and wrinkles…you know, the kind of stuff peptides purportedly do.

Still interested in exosomes? I encourage you to dig deep into the supplier’s studies. Be sure to ask if they have any meaningful penetration studies and what systems the penetration was modeled in. Ask for any tips on improving penetration into the skin. Or be content with what percentage can penetrate. Maybe it’s doing something!

Valerie George
askvalerie@icloud.com

Valerie George is a cosmetic chemist, science communicator, educator, leader, and avid proponent of transparency in the beauty industry. She works on the latest research in hair color and hair care at her company, Simply Formulas, and is the co-host of The Beauty Brains podcast. You can find her on Instagram at @cosmetic_chemist or showcasing her favorite ingredients to small brands and home formulators at simply-ingredients.com