Byoma Bets on Barrier Repair to Prevent Breakouts

Byoma launched Clearamide Complex, a new skincare line designed to restore the barrier and prevent breakout. Laura Bamidele, director of innovation and product development at Byoma, recently sat down with Happi to discuss the line.

Happi: What is your background? How did you arrive at working with Byoma?

Bamidele: I got my start in consumer facing retail- and it gave me a deep understanding of consumer needs and fueled my true personal passion for skincare. I came into the Future Beauty Labs business back in 2018 and have since evolved into leading the innovation team- I’m so happy that I’m able to do what I love every single day, researching and developing category-leading skincare formulas and working with the best in the industry. 

Happi:  What’s wrong with traditional breakout care products?

Bamidele: Our approach to research and development is to solve true needs and service the consumer- and what we found within the acne category, is a lack of true innovation. The majority of acne products still rely solely on legacy active ingredients like: Benzoyl Peroxide + Salicylic Acid. These ingredients have been used for decades and while effective, they haven’t significantly evolved in how they are formulated with or delivered. This means that many acne treatments are overly drying, irritating, or sensitizing. This can disrupt the barrier, leading to redness, peeling, and more breakouts. People accept that breakout treatments will break their skin barriers.

But they shouldn’t have to. Something needs to change. This is coupled with the fact that public interest in skin barrier is at an all-time high. People are understanding that the key to healthy skin is a healthy skin barrier- and there aren’t acne care solutions that meet these needs.So we thought, why can’t we combine effective blemish care with Byoma’s skin barrier first approach? The solution is our blemish care system—Our first clinically-proven, blemish-focused range that takes care of your skin barrier as it helps to target blemishes at every stage.

The Clearamide Complex Advantage

Happi: What makes Clearamide Complex different?

Bamidele: Our first ever patent-pending complex, our Clearamide Complex is present in every SKU in the range and is comprised of the following ingredients:

• Ceramide NP: A damaged skin barrier can make acne worse. That’s why we included Ceramide NP—to restore barrier function and prevent breakouts.

• Phytosphingosine: Helps minimize blemish causing bacteria, helping to reduce redness, and balances skin lipids to help prevent excess sebum.

• Ethyl Linoleate: People with acne often have lower levels of linoleic acid in their sebum, leading to thicker, stickier oil that clogs pores. Linoleic acid is a precursor to Ethyl Linoleate, which helps regulate sebum composition and improve overall skin texture.

• Hydroxycinnamic Acid & Rutin: Hydroxycinnamic acid prevents sebum oxidation, keeping pores clear while Rutin helps reduce redness/irritation.

In-Depth Clinical Trials

Happi: Do you have clinicals that prove the efficacy of the product? How does it compare to benzoyl peroxide?

Bamidele: Our level of internal and external testing protocol is highly unusual, even for major international brands. We know brands tend to focus on clinical testing on the headline claims. But what Byoma is doing differently is ensuring that all aspects of skin health are clinically evaluated. Two independently tested and evaluated studies per product ensuring products function as they are being marketed but are also skin barrier friendly is exceptional for a brand of this age. We have spent over $2 million to-date just on clinical testing—over 75 trials conducted and 130,000 skin measurements captured.

For this range specifically, we invested in new equipment such as our Antera 3D digital camera. We take clinical images of the face or back throughout the study, these images are blindly graded for blemish type and severity. We use 3D imaging to measure spot size, volume and redness accurately, while image analysis tracks spot count and redness over time. We also measure skin barrier (TEWL), moisturization, and reactivity while capsaicin tests ensure products don’t increase sensitivity. To ensure products were effective for all age groups, we conducted identical clinical trials on both teens and adults. This was to ensure the product is effective on blemishes, whatever the underlying cause, be it hormonal etc., no matter what age you are. Our Clearamide Complex also completed in vitro testing to show there’s a synergistic benefit of using these ingredients together. There is a significant reduction in the proliferation of sebocytes compared to the performance of these actives in silo.

The Future of Acne Care and Skincare Actives

Happi: What’s next for the brand? What’s next for the acne care category overall?

Bamidele: We as brands have a responsibility to clear up the misconceptions and myths about acne. We have so many people searching for quick fixes doing more harm than good to their skin. We are going to work hard to change that. Acne care should never come at the cost of your skin barrier—gentle is powerful. We want to help people with their acne journey and support them every day, that’s success to me. As for what’s next, stay tuned to our social channels for more exciting innovation!

Happi: Finally, what is the future of active ingredients and why? Should formulators be thinking more about naturalness and mildness? How do they rethink skincare?

Bamidele: For us, the future of active ingredients lies in our approach to innovation. And that has been and always will be to integrate skin barrier care and health at the forefront of each and every formulation we bring to market. Skin health is our north star and a subject we’re so passionate and dedicated to. With Byoma, you don’t need to sacrifice the long-term health of your skin to see instant, visible results.