Beauty influencers are paid big bucks to tout skin care products and services from red light therapy to glass skin. But dermatologists are blowing the whistle on certain viral skin care trends, which they say can be doing more harm than good.

Popular trends like the glass-skin look, the Russian manicure and at-home red light therapy have sparked widespread attention, but they’re not for everyone, skin experts warn.

Ahead of National Healthy Skin Month in November, board-certified dermatologists are offering their expertise into these popular skin care practices and their long-term impact.

“Social media has definitely made people more aware of the importance of skin care and maintaining healthy skin,” said Samantha Karlin, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist in Covington, LA. “What’s important to remember is that not every trend is suitable for every skin type, and some might even be harmful and cause damage.”

More Research Is Needed into Red Light Therapy

Red light therapy uses red or near-infrared light to treat skin concerns like wrinkles, age spots and sagging skin, as well as conditions like hair loss and acne, according to Dr. Amit Om, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist in Charlotte, NC. At-home red-light devices are becoming more and more popular with social media influencers, as people turn to masks, panels and wands to treat their skin issues. Unlike ultraviolet (UV) light, which can cause skin cancer, research hasn’t found that red light can cause cancer.

“Dermatologists often recommend red-light therapy alongside treatments like medicated creams, microneedling or chemical peels to treat signs of aging,” said Dr. Om. “To help you maintain results after an in-office treatment, your dermatologist may recommend using an at-home device.”

While the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has cleared several of these devices to treat signs of skin aging at home – which means they meet certain safety and effectiveness standards and can be legally marketed in the US – more research is needed to determine exactly how effective they are, said Dr. Om.

“Some studies have shown that with repeated treatments, it’s possible for red light to regrow hair over time, but it’s important to note that there are many causes of hair loss, and for some of these causes, we still don’t know if red light can successfully reverse hair loss,” said Dr. Om.

Side effects, if any, are generally mild, he said, noting that some people experience slight pain or irritated skin after treatment. Many at-home devices have the words “FDA-cleared” on the packaging, which means the FDA considers these devices to have a low risk of adverse effects.

“If you’re considering using a red-light device at home, I recommend first consulting with a board-certified dermatologist, who can talk to you about your overall health and what results you’re hoping to achieve,” said Dr. Om. “We can determine what type of treatment works best for your skin concern and your skin type.”

Infections Tied to Russian Manicures

While increasingly popular on TikTok, the dry or Russian manicure may aim to give the illusion of longer, stronger nails, but dermatologists say this kind of beauty may not be worth the pain of potentially problematic skin that may result.

Also known as a waterless manicure, the Russian manicure skips the usual nail soaking step. Instead, an electric file is used right away to clean, shape and work on the nail and cuticle. The idea is to remove skin surrounding the nail and the cuticle to make nails appear long, and to place polish under the cuticle to make the manicure last longer.

“I caution my patients against this type of nail care technique, because the cuticle acts as a protective barrier, and it’s not designed to be breached,” urged Karlin. “Removing the cuticle puts you at risk for infection from bacteria and fungus. In particular, after Russian manicures we tend to see patients with paronychia, a type of infection that causes the skin around your nail to become inflamed, painful and discolored.”

‘Glass Skin Is Not Realistic’

Glass skin, which originated in Korea, is a skincare trend that keeps the skin looking smooth, clear and virtually pore-less, said Karlin. The concept is to keep the skin as moisturized as possible to increase skin cell turnover and optimize the hydration of the skin to minimize the appearance of lines.

The steps to achieving this look include using a gentle cleanser, a hydrating serum, a moisturizer and exfoliating – all while making sure to protect skin using sunscreen.

“Certain aspects of the glass skin trend like moisturizing your skin and using a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher are positive steps toward better skin care habits,” said Karlin. “But the glass-skin look might not be realistic for everyone, and some people may run the risk of using too many products, which can lead to issues like clogged pores, irritation and breakouts. That’s why it’s important to think about everything in moderation as you’re customizing your skin care routine, and remember that as dermatologists, we can help recommend a skin care routine that works best for your skin type.”

Ultimately, it’s safer to consult a board-certified dermatologist instead of experimenting with skin care trends that may pose risks, said Dr. Om.

“While some of these trends may seem harmless or even beneficial, they often don’t have any real science behind them and could end up causing skin damage or other health issues,” he said. “A board-certified dermatologist can provide you with safe, personalized advice to help you care for your skin without taking unnecessary risks.”