Demand for makeup remains strong, even as cost-of-living increases put pressure on Europeans’ personal finances. The current cost-of-living crisis has given rise to cheaper dupe alternatives, which are often demonstrated and promoted by online social media influencers. This fast-moving category benefits from the enormous viral success of TikTok Shop, where indie brands can gain rapid exposure and high sales. 

According to Euromonitor International, the European makeup market will grow 5.1% this year to reach nearly $18.8 billion. Much of this growth is driven by Western Europe, which accounts for 81% of sales. At the end of 2023, the UK was the largest European makeup market at more than $2.7 billion, followed by Germany, nearly $2.4 billion; Italy, $1.9 billion; Spain, nearly $1.3 billion and France, more than $1.2 billion.

Premium makeup has outstripped the total European makeup market in terms of growth. The top five European countries, as defined by Circana Prestige Beauty, were valued at more than $3.6 billion in 2023 and sales grew 16% last year. The largest market was the UK at just over $1 billion, followed by France, $957 million; Germany, $699 million; Italy, $616 million and Spain, $362 million. The fastest growing product segments were blusher, +68%; setting sprays/powders, +57%; highlighters, +54% and lipglosses, +28%. Their popularity reflects the trend for airbrushed, glowing, glass-like skin. Leading premium brand Charlotte Tilbury helped shape this trend with a range of kits, including the Airbrush Flawless Glow Kit containing Wonderglow Face Primer and Airbrush Flawless Foundation. 

The Rise of the Dupe Culture

In GlobalData’s Q2 2024 Global Consumer Survey, European consumers were asked about their shopping habits for beauty and grooming products and how their habits changed in the light of the rising cost-of-living crisis. A quarter (25%) said they cut back to save money. Interestingly, a similar percentage (23%) said they are spending more money due to rising prices. However, just 8% are spending more money because they are buying more products. A key factor behind the change in makeup shopping habits is that one in five Europeans are switching to cheaper, more affordable brands. 

TikTok is behind the proliferation of dupe brands. These cheap copycats are often made to look like more expensive brands, but can disappoint in terms of quality and performance. However, their impact on makeup sales is considerable and for every high-end launch there is likely to be a cheaper alternative. More than a year ago, German discount retailer Aldi waded into the dupe end of the makeup pool, launching 20 versions of popular premium lines. Aldi’s Lacura Luminous Filter goes up against Charlotte Tilbury’s Hollywood Flawless Filter, which the latter claimed to be the most popular beauty product of 2023. Another Aldi lookalike is Luminous Lip Oil which is a dead ringer for Dior Lip Glow Oil and sells for a tenth of the price.

Online retailer Dupeshop features affordable alternatives that are tested against similar premium products for ingredients, quality and performance in consumer tests. Dupeshop also works with professional makeup artists and skincare experts. Examples on the website include Nars Natural Radiant Longwear Foundation versus Maybelline Dream Radiant Liquid, which shares many of the same key ingredients, and Bobbi Brown Foundation & Contour Stick and Primark Foundation Stick, with matching shades, and similar consistency and formula. 

Social Media’s Impact

Data from GlobalData’s consumer survey confirms that young consumers are most likely to search for products that have been recommended on social media when purchasing beauty products. This is either “essential” or “nice to have” for 34% of European consumers, rising to 50% among Generation Z and 45% among Generation Y. 

The impact of social media on a brand’s performance can be illustrated by Made by Mitchell, a new makeup brand created by Mitchell Halliday. This young British male makeup artist built a global online audience for his distinctive colorful transformations. He was an early adopter on Instagram and stood out for his non-conforming makeup that drew inspiration from extrovert drag-influenced styles. From Instagram, he moved to TikTok where he became the first UK beauty business to earn $1 million revenue in one day during a 12-hour live event on TikTok Shop in June 2023. Made by Mitchell is now sold in 95 UK Boots stores. 

TikTok’s influence on makeup brands has been monitored by Europe’s leading data-driven influencer marketing platform, Kolsquare. It confirms TikTok’s impact on the European beauty market in its latest study of 480 beauty brands across 19,935 TikTok profiles with 5,000 plus followers. Publishing its latest listing of leading beauty brands on TikTok in the UK, Kolsquare ranks Maybelline, L’Oreal and Nyx Cosmetics as the top three brands; Made by Mitchell and MAC Cosmetics rank sixth and seventh. 

CEO and founder of Kolsquare, Quentin Bordage, maintains that TikTok’s unique value as a marketing channel lies in its unparalleled capacity to create deep personal connections through highly creative and engaging content. 

“For example, Germany showcases notably high engagement rates, while the UK and France are distinguished by their substantial content production,” he explained.

Meanwhile, Kolsquare’s high content counts for TikTok in the UK and France suggest brands are engaging in aggressive content creation and collaboration strategies, which Bordage says may contribute to higher engagement and Earned Media Value (EMV).

Maybelline Is No. 1

Further analysis reveals that across Europe, Maybelline is the top performing brand on TikTok in multiple regions. That lofty position illustrates a robust global presence and an effective strategy that effectively resonates across borders. The brand consistently appears as a top brand on TikTok in Italy, UK, France and Germany and is known for its innovative and fun content. For example, the creative CGI advertising for Sky High Mascara includes a giant mascara brush on the London Underground that “brushes lashes” attached to trains as they ride past. The concept is replicated on a London bus with fake lashes passing beneath a giant CGI generated image of the Maybelline Sky High mascara brush.

In a fast-evolving market such as makeup, brands will continue to turn to TikTok in order to maintain a cutting-edge presence in digital marketing. 

Imogen Matthews

Headington, Oxford UK

+44 1865 764918
www.imogenmatthews.co.uk

Imogen Matthews is a respected consultant, journalist and researcher who commentates on trends in the beauty industry. She regularly contributes to many of the world’s foremost beauty trade titles, has served on the Board of Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW UK) and won the prestigious Cosmetic Executive (UK) Achiever Award. Founded by Imogen in 1993, The Premium Market Report remains the only in-depth report to examine trends in the premium cosmetics, skincare and fragrance industry.