The sun is shining on the European sun care category as more consumers take to using sun protection products for the face and body. The reason for the bright forecast is two-fold: health-conscious consumers are aware of the dangers of UV rays on unprotected skin, while sun care brands across the spectrum are innovating with easy-to-wear, skin-friendly formulations that boast a range of skin care benefits. 

According to GlobalData’s market data forecast, the European sun care market will grow 2.8% this year to nearly $3.0 billion.

Sun & Skin Care Merge

The majority of Western European sun care sales are for sun protection products, according to Euromonitor International. It is here that much of the product innovation is occurring, especially when it comes to sun protection with anti-aging benefits. 

A recent trend is for skin care brands to move into the sun care arena with separate facial sunscreens whose modern formulations do not leave tell-tale chalkiness on skin, according to Lia Neophytou, lead analyst of health and hygiene insights, GlobalData. 

“Consumers who are aware of the importance of sun care, but are concerned about it being incompatible with their makeup routines, will find these products appealing,” she explained. “Sun care application is an integral part of the skin care and makeup regimen for many consumers. This is driving innovation in lightweight, non-greasy formulas that can seamlessly integrate.” 

She cites Boots No.7 Future Renew UV Defence Shield SPF50, which is an addition to the Future Renew skin care range and is designed to be used every morning before applying makeup. The lightweight formulation is invisible on the skin, making it suitable for all skin tones. 

Other skin care brands moving into the sun protection space include The Inkey List with its Dewy Sunscreen SPF30. The formula provides broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection and an 8% hydration trio of polyglutamic acid, glycerine and squalene for a smooth dewy finish. 

Gen Z-targeted skin care brand Byoma introduced Moisturizing Gel-Cream SPF 30, which is described on its website as “skin care meets effective innovative sun protection for hydrated healthy skin.” Added skin-caring ingredients include a tri-ceramide complex to support the skin barrier, beta glucan and hyaluronic acid for deep hydration. 

Meanwhile, L’Oréal-owned La Roche-Posay’s Anthelios SPF50 is popular among European consumers. It was reformulated with a patented filter, Mexoryl 400, which helps protect skin against UVA, UVB and ultra-long UVA rays. The minimalist, nearly transparent formula is designed for use alone or under makeup.

Sun Care Serums Debut

Another area where skin care meets sun care is in the relatively new sun serums sub-category. Designed as an addition to the sun protection routine and not a replacement for sunscreen, sun serums often contain hyaluronic acid to bolster hydration and antioxidants to provide an additional shield against free radicals. As such, sun serums behave in much the same way as regular skin care serums in that they are designed to prevent premature aging that results from sun exposure. 

Hello Sunday is a British brand whose founder Amy Ford spent time in Australia where awareness of sun damage is high. Her vision for Hello Sunday was to change UK consumers’ perception of using sunscreen and to encourage year-round protection. The way to accomplish this, she explains, is by replacing a multi-skin care regime with products that have multifunctional high-performing capabilities. For example, The One That’s a Serum SPF 50 hydrating and brightening vitamin C serum is intended to simplify the daily skin care routine by combining serum, moisturizer and sunscreen in one. As with other facial sunscreens on the market, the formula is lightweight and fast-absorbing, ensuring zero white cast. 

Hello Sunday’s newest addition is The Mineral One SPF 50, which offers 100% mineral broad spectrum protection in a formula containing antioxidants kukui oil and vitamin E as well as hyaluronic acid. Users are encouraged to use the product year-round no matter how high or low the temperature outside.

Texture Innovations

Simon Pitman, founder and expert in communications for beauty, food and natural products, of Pitman Comms, observes that sun care is morphing into hair and body care functionality. 

“The claims are very similar to facial skin care, such as anti-aging and hydration. In the past, it was difficult to create hair and body care formulations with UV protection, but that is changing, because formulators are becoming more adventurous in their use of ingredients,” he explained.

Texture is the new frontier in sun care, according to Pitman. 

“It’s all about the molecular consistency of sunscreen ingredients being altered to make them much lighter, silkier and smoother.” 

French skin care brand Caudalie addressed the trend for new modern textures with its Vinosun Very High Protection SPF50+, a “sun water” non-aerosol spray. It consists of a half-oil, half-water formula that is fast absorbing without feeling greasy, and can be used on the face and body. Sun waters have also been introduced by French brand Clarins with its Sun Care Water Mist SPF50+ and Coty’s Lancaster Sun Beauty Sun Protective Water SPF50+. 

Swedish brand Evy Technology pushes the boundaries of texture with its sunscreen mousse range. The products are easy to apply with long-lasting and water-resistant properties, while being free from preservatives and perfumes. The brand’s claimed innovation is that the formulation has been designed to be a carrier for active ingredients which are protected for maximum effect. According to Evy, the patented mousse forms an invisible protective membrane that enhances the skin’s natural defenses in every situation—from dry, cold, high-altitude conditions to immersion in salt water, and from strong sun to urban air pollution. 

New textures will be the way forward for European beauty brands as a means of getting consumers engaged with the more serious issue of skin protection against skin cancer. Watch for more innovation as formulations combine ultra-light silky textures with high UVA and UVB protection that feel great on the skin. 

Imogen Matthews is a respected consultant, journalist and researcher who commentates on trends in the beauty industry. She regularly contributes to many of the world’s foremost beauty trade titles, has served on the Board of Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW UK) and won the prestigious Cosmetic Executive (UK) Achiever Award. Founded by Imogen in 1993, The Premium Market Report remains the only in-depth report to examine trends in the premium cosmetics, skincare and fragrance industry. Imogen can be emailed at www.imogenmatthews.co.uk