From Perfection To Protection

For many consumers, putting one’s best face forward involves a combination of skincare and color cosmetics, the ratio of which varies depending on their personal preference—not to mention the activity planned, time of the day or even the season. 

NPD in the facial cosmetic market is aimed at delivering benefits for the short- and long-term—from immediate color correction to blurring the look of imperfections to protection from a host of environmental aggressors.

“Our skin is our largest organ and a protective shield that keeps pollutants and nasty germs from entering our body. While skin can filter a lot of environmental stressors, long periods of overexposure to poor air quality can have a big impact on your skin health, leading to a whole host of problems from dehydration and skin barrier damage to the more serious issues of premature aging,” said Marla Ibrahim, US national education director and skin expert at Clarins. 

‘States’ of Affairs

What’s more, where a consumer lives can play a role in his or her facial skin care needs as UV, air quality, temperature—all of which impact skin health—can vary across the country.

Clarins analyzed key skin-impacting factors within the air and released an Air Quality Index for Skin for the US. The metrics of UV rays, air quality, pollution, humidity and average temperature selected for analysis were chosen based on their specific impact on skin health, according to Clarins. Data was taken from the most recent environmental reports for each state. (Hawaii and Alaska were not included due to a lack of sources, noted Clarins.)

The data revealed that Georgia, California and Arizona ranked in the top three, respectively, for worst air quality for skin.

Georgia, which was the overall worst state for skin health, scored 41.8 out of 50. In air quality, Georgia scored 48 out of 50. Georgia’s fine particle (PM2.5) exposure levels was 8.6 The state’s UV level of 8 is considered very high by the  EPA, and it scored 45 out of 50 in the data for average temperature. Georgia also ranked high for its humidity level at 85%, just 4% below Mississippi, the most humid state in the US, according to the Clarins data. 

Despite its  reputation as the home of celebrities and beauty perfection, California was the second worst state environmentally for skin health. It had the highest levels of fine particle pollution in America (13.4 PM2.5) indicating the levels of dust, soot, smoke and liquid droplets within the air. It also had a UV level of 10, the highest number of all states. 

“Exposure to pollutants such as traffic-related air pollution can cause clogging of the pores. You may experience increased pigmentation in your skin, including dark spots or an uneven skin tone,” Ibrahim said.

Arizona scored the highest UV level among states in the analysis, ranking highly for fine particle pollution and average annual sun exposure, too. 

According to the analysis, Maine has the best environmental conditions for skin health across the US, with a score of just 6.3 out of 50. The state had the lowest overall score of all states with a particularly low UV level of 6 (1.7 less than the average UV rays across the US). Maine also ranked low for air quality and pollution levels, with a 5.4 PM2.5 exposure level, one of the lowest in America. Vermont claimed second position; it ranked low for all environmental factors, especially UV rays, air pollution, air quality and humidity levels.

According to the data, the majority of the top 10 best states for skin health were found in Northeast despite much of it being smothered by dense smoke from Canadian wildfires last summer, leading to New York City’s worst air quality since the 1960s.

Clarins offers products that deliver multi-pronged protection for consumers no matter where they reside—such as its UV Plus SPF 50 Anti Pollution Face Sunscreen. This  lightweight, oil-free sunscreen protects against indoor and outdoor pollutants, according to the brand.

Solutions for Facial Skin

Across the category, beauty and skincare brands are pumping out new facial cosmetics touting instant correction and longer-term protection claims.

“Consumers today are more savvy than ever before when it comes to skincare. They are prioritizing products that deliver visible and long-lasting results that enhance their overall skin health,” asserted Michael Sabbia, Revision Skincare’s chief  marketing officer.

New to the Revision Skincare roster is Intellishade TruPhysical Clear, a 4-in-1 sheer, daily-use anti-aging moisturizer and mineral sunscreen with broad spectrum SPF 50.

According to Alisar Zahr, PhD, Revision Skincare’s senior director of research and clinical development, Intellishade TruPhysical Clear moisturizer blends to a sheer finish even on darker Fitzpatrick skin tones. 

The formula corrects, protects, brightens and hydrates while providing what it says is clinically-demonstrated DNA protection and repair. It contains a blend of three peptides to support collagen production to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles; THD ascorbate to defend against free radicals and help brighten and even skin tone; and a mineral blend that includes titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and transparent yellow iron oxide.

“This product contains unique technology that not only has been clinically demonstrated to protect the skin from UVA and UVB rays, which has been shown to impact our DNA, it also helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while improving evenness of skin tone and hyperpigmentation,” said Zahr.

Intellishade TruPhysical Clear is also formulated with a postbiotic ingredient that originates from bacteria surviving on NASA’s Mars-bound spacecraft and has strong antioxidant properties, which Zahr said makes the formula “truly out of this world.”

Bruno Vassari offers Velvet Touch Sun Stick SPF 50, which is formulated for all skin types, including oily, acne-prone and sensitive skin. It offers instant blurring, mattifying and illuminating effects without leaving whitish residue on the skin. Thanks to the stick format, it can be reapplied over makeup without making the skin feel heavy or sticky, per the brand.

Face-First Skincare Formulas

Charlotte Tilbury’s newest complexion product is Unreal Skin Sheer Glow Tint Hydrating Foundation Stick. Billed as “no-foundation foundation,” it offers blurring, smoothing, sheer-to-light, buildable coverage and a “snatched” lift and sculpt effect via the brand’s “light mapping mesh tech,” which cascades light across the face. The formula also contains hyaluronic acid, plant-powered Collageneer (an anti-aging ingredient), daikon radish seed oil and vitamin E.

Beauty brand Wet n Wild has added new Bare Focus Niacinamide Skin Tint, which delivers sheer buildable coverage for a healthy-looking glow. The foundation, which is infused with 5% niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peony extract and vitamin E, is offered in 27 shades.

IT Cosmetics recently revamped its top-selling CC cream—Your Skin But Better CC+ Cream Natural Matte SPF 40. The new iteration has the same hydrating, full-coverage formula as the original, but now contains “skin-balancing” ingredients to fight oily skin, refine pores and control shine for up to 16 hours, according to the brand.  

IT Cosmetics has also rolled out a new Sun Blush in five  buildable shades. The 92% solid serum has a melting balm texture and is infused with hyaluronic acid and peptides for anti-aging benefits.  

Primark—the European fast-fashion retailer that is expanding its footprint in US—recently brought its coveted beauty products from Europe to America. The roster of PS…by Primark includes viral successes like PS…Vitamin Enriched Moisturizing Primer (six of which are sold every 60 seconds), as well as makeup bag staples like PS…Prep + Perfect Ultra Grip Primer (formulated with hyaluronic acid and aloe vera juice) and Prep + Perfect Brightening Setting Spray, which uses aloe vera extract to help soothe and calm skin.

Peace Out Skincare’s Redness + Clarifying Mist, which is now available online at Sephora.com as well as in stores, is made for acne prone skin and people that suffer from redness, irritation and eczema. 

According to Dr. Carol Cheng, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California Los Angeles, the hero ingredient in the formula is hypochlorous acid—which is gentle, yet highly effective at calming inflammation, repairing the skin barrier, reducing redness and minimizing breakouts. The mist also incorporates zinc and arnica—natural redness reducers that cool and protect stressed skin—and a triple clay blend that dries excess oil, cleans impurities from pores and relieves visible redness and dry skin. It can be used every day and all over the body, too, according to the brand.

Polite Society’s More Than A Pretty Face Foundation is another skincare-meets-makeup hybrid designed to offer a flawless finish while nourishing the skin. This foundation offers three levels of coverage: skin-tint-like, medium to full, and fullest. Formulas are crafted with hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and willow bark to support healthy skin function.  

Now & Later

Olehenriksen also offers easy-to-use formulas for the face that deliver benefits now and later. Its Banana Bright+ Vitamin CC Sticks, for example, brighten under eyes and color-correct dark circles for skin correcting and makeup boosting results in one-swipe. Caffeine reinvigorates undereyes, while two forms of enhanced and antioxidant rich vitamin C improve elasticity, brighten and reduce the appearance of dark spots. Light reflecting pigments help deliver an illuminated complexion, according to the brand.

Consumers want to put their best face forward as they walk out the door and years down the road, challenging cosmetic chemists to deliver formulas that do both effectively.