As a result of the cost-of-living crisis in 2023, hard-hit European consumers are more discerning and selective regarding facial skincare purchases. A strong interest in dermocosmetic products resulted in high growth for home-grown brands, such as CeraVe and La Roche-Posay. Meanwhile, the small but emerging skin microbiome category is gathering pace due to new product launches and the introduction of a German certification; the latter adds credibility to skin microbiome product claims. 

The European market for facial skincare has bounced back after the impact of multiple lockdowns and the interruption to supply chains. However, rising costs and high inflation mean that consumer spending across the board has not risen as quickly as expected.

According to Euromonitor International, the European facial skincare market posted growth of 3.9% in 2023 to top $22.8 billion. Euromonitor predicts growth will slow to 3.5% this year. Slower growth may be blamed on selectivity.

“Across Europe, we are not necessarily seeing consumers using fewer products as a result of high inflation and weaker spending, but they are being more conscious and selective in their skincare purchases,” said Connor Spicer, senior research analyst at Euromonitor.

Spicer blamed the slight weakening of growth on a shift in sales toward anti-agers and moisturizers and treatments—both recorded volume growth in 2023—at the expense of body care, hand care and sets or kits. 

Euromonitor analysts report an increase in the usage of multifunctional skincare products, such as Charlotte Tilbury’s Multi Miracle Glow Balm, which functions as a cleanser, face or body moisturizer and overnight mask. However, multifunctionality still does not rank among the top desired features for skincare products. According to the Euromonitor Voice of the Consumer: Beauty Survey (January to July 2023), Europeans’ top five most desired skincare product features in 2023 were value for money, high quality, suited for user’s specific skin type, dermatologist tested and natural/organic. 

Popular Dermocosmetics

Many Europeans seek the help of a pharmacist who they trust to recommend products with proven credentials. This need for reassurance that skincare products really do work has led to an increase in skincare advice and product recommendations from a wide spectrum of skincare professionals, including dermatologists, aestheticians, plastic surgeons and cosmetic chemists. 

“European consumers are willing to invest in their skincare routines if the products they purchase show results and efficacy for their personal needs. As such, dermocosmetic skincare products continued to outperform the broader skin care space across Europe,” said Spicer. 

CeraVe and La Roche-Posay are two examples of successful brands. Both have strong followings in the region and provide results at their respective price points. 

Ceramides are the cornerstone of CeraVe’s approach to skin care. UK-based CeraVe has been developed with dermatologists and the products are formulated with a blend of ceramides 1, 3 and 6-11, fatty acids and other lipids found in the skin’s natural barrier. The brand also boasts a patented multivesicular emulsion delivery technology that claims to release moisturizing ingredients over a long period.

Innova Market Insights’ The Premium Market Report Skincare 2024, highlights the importance of social media for professional and dermatological skin care, with TikTok and Instagram proving to be a growing resource for this kind of information. The report mentions leading German aesthetics doctor Dr. Barbara Sturm. She uses Instagram to raise awareness for her eponymous portfolio. Puig liked the expanding Sturm lineup so much that it acquired the brand for an undisclosed amount. Industry sources estimate Dr Sturm’s sales at less than $100 million. 

Other professional skin care brands that successfully use social media include Pillowtalk Derm by Dr. Shereene Idriss and Augustine Bader, founded by German biomedical scientist and physician Dr. Augustine Bader. 

Ectoin Emerges

TikTok is also behind a growing interest in ectoin, the latest buzzword in skin care. The social media platform had 42.6 million views last year regarding ectoin. Some retailers agree. Lookfantastic, claims to be Europe’s leading online premium beauty retailer. It reported a surge in ectoin product searches by consumers in 2023. Top-selling ectoin-based skincare products on its website include Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Ectoin-infused cream and Ultrasun Face SPF50+. 

In the 2024 Beauty Trends Report, Marcia Kilgore, Beauty Pie founder and skincare expert, lists ectoin as the skin care ingredient to watch. 

Skin-barrier Protection

The Premium Market Report Skincare 2024 reports on consumers’ growing interest concerning the physiological make-up of skin. 

“Skincare product formulations aimed at supporting the skin barrier have become more advanced, which is allowing brands to incorporate ingredients and technologies such as ceramides, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and barrier-enhancing peptides into their products. These ingredients are known for their ability to strengthen and repair the skin barrier,” explained Simon Pitman, co-author of the report. “Likewise, growing interest in the skin microbiome is fueling interest in probiotic, prebiotic and postbiotic formulations for the same reason.” 

Recent product launches that focus on skin-barrier protection include Marie Drago’s skin biome brand, Galinée, now owned by Shiseido; Dr Barbara Sturm Clarifying Mask and Lancôme Advanced Genifique Double Concentrate. 

Mymicrobiome is an online information and certification platform. Created in cooperation with the Friedrich-Alexander University Erlangen, Germany, it researches the human microbiome. The goal is to address individual questions about the microbiome and offer support with microbiome-friendly formulations. To help consumers choose which products are well tolerated by the skin microbiome, the company launched the Microbiome-friendly certification. Certified products are listed on the website and include Eve Lom Retinol Serum, which utilizes liposome-encapsulated retinol and microbiome rebalancing prebiotic oat kernel ferment to prevent and protect skin against multiple signs of aging. 

With all the interest around the skin microbiome from brands and consumers, it is easy to lose sight of the fact that this sub-sector is quite small and populated in the main by niche brands. 

“Skin microbiome purchases are largely generated through social media platforms and personal recommendations,” said Spicer. “So, although there is interest in this space, it is growing from a low base and remains an emerging and new segment for most consumers.” 

Gallinée and Drunk Elephant are Spicer’s top microbiome-led brands to watch; both are owned by Shiseido.

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Imogen Matthews
Headington, Oxford UK
+44 1865 764918
www.imogenmatthews.co.uk
 
Imogen Matthews is a respected consultant, journalist and researcher who commentates on trends in the beauty industry. She regularly contributes to many of the world’s foremost beauty trade titles, has served on the Board of Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW UK) and won the prestigious Cosmetic Executive (UK) Achiever Award. Founded by Imogen in 1993, The Premium Market Report remains the only in-depth report to examine trends in the premium cosmetics, skincare and fragrance industry.