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Sun care sales are up, thanks to growing concern about UV damage.
March 7, 2006
By: TOM BRANNA
Chief Content Officer
Suncare sales are surging. In 2005, dollar sales for sun tan products increased more than $1.1 billion, according to Euromonitor International, Chicago, IL. Protection products reached over $820 million, self tanners brought in almost $313 million, with after sun products making up the difference with sales of $22.5 million. The jump in sales can be attributed to several factors such as better educated consumers, better and more varied products and ease-of-use. Industry experts speaking to happi agreed that sun care users are looking for products that offer convenience, fast and easy application and high SPFs. But Rich Miller, vice president, Teeka Tan, Inc., Boca Raton, FL, insists consumers more than ever are aware of the dangers of UV exposure. “You see more people wearing screens and blocks than in the past,” he commented. “The numbers can be misleading from year to year depending on weather patterns, particularly around big holiday weekends. However, the one area I think the entire industry needs to focus on is educating younger people, who have a certain air of invincibility about them. They should learn to protect themselves a bit more from the sun so later on in life they won’t be forced to enjoy a beautiful sunny day from indoors.” Education is important, but so are esthetics. While Stephanie Mellenberndt, marketing director, Hawaiian Tropic, concurs that education is the best sun block, she adds, “The newer more interesting trend is the drive for the esthetic properties of the formulas. [Consumers] are looking for lightweight, non-greasy applications.” Consumers are also focused on gentle formulations, according to Casi Hudson, director of marketing, Nature’s Gate, Chatsworth, CA. “Knowing that you are protecting your skin and using a gentle, safe product is especially important for an educated consumer. Being able to provide each of these key benefits in a product that is also beautifully packaged and luxuriously formulated is precisely what the current market place is demanding.” And that’s what happi has seen most this season, the combination of effective products that smell good, feel good and come in packages that are attractive and easy to use. As with many personal care products, the spa experience is slowly creeping into sun care formulations and marketing campaigns.
So Hot It Glows
Without a doubt, the biggest sun care buzz this year has been around the numerous “glow” products on the market. These products promise more than just the self-tanner, which some consumers still hesitate to use on their faces. “The Glow concept is so successful for two reasons,” Ms. Mellenberndt of Hawaiian Tropic explains. “First, it simplifies the consumer’s life by accomplishing two things in one, daily moisturizing and sunless tanning. Secondly, because it takes the fear out of sunless tanning. There is no need to be careful, you just moisturize and get great results.” One application of Island Glow from Hawaiian Tropic moisturizes skin for more than 12 hours with a soothing green tea scent. Formulated with erythrulose and a small amount of dihydroxyacetone (DHA) for controllable color, it is non-streaking, non-comedogenic and available in light and medium skin tones.
Made in the Shade
Self-tanning products have come a long way since the uneven coverage, orange coloring and embarrassing streaks of earlier formulations. Euromonitor indicates that self-tanner sales in 2005 reached almost $313 million, with sales forecasted to hit well over $340 million in 2006, proving that consumers are starting to trust self-tanners to give them a natural look. And marketers are responding by putting more and more at-home tanning systems on the shelves, featuring added benefits and spa-like experiences. L’Oréal Paris Dermo-Expertise introduced two new products to enhance the self-tanning experience—Sublime Bronze Sunless Scrub (SRP $8.99) for prepping and Sublime Bronze Self-Tanning Towelettes for the Face (SRP $9.99) for gentle, convenient facial tanning. Sublime Bronze Sunless Scrub is a body exfoliant applied in the bath or shower. It uses microbeads in a patented beta hydroxy complex to gently smooth away rough, dead skin cells to ensure a natural-looking tan. The Sublime Bronze Self-Tanning Towelettes for the Face are pre-moistened and contain DHA, an active self-tanning ingredient, for sensitive facial skin and to provide natural looking color. Its non-comedogenic, quick-drying formula has a fresh fragrance, and includes vitamin E and gentle AHA derivatives to smooth and hydrate parched skin. Neutrogena Moisture Rich Sunless Tanning SPF 20 offers sunless tanning with a high SPF moisturizer. It delivers a healthy looking tan while leaving skin silky, soft and smooth. It uses patented Helioplex technology for UVA SPF 20 protection and is available in medium and deep colors. The 4oz. package retails for $9.49. For a sun-kissed glow without sun damage, Exuviance Skin Healthy Sunless Tanning mousse is a quick-drying, color-, fragrance-, oil- and alcohol-free mousse that produces a natural-looking, even tan on the face and body within a few hours. It’s formulated with gluconolactone, an antioxidant polyhydroxy acid that moisturizes and provides light exfoliation for smooth skin and even coverage .
The Warmth of the Sun
Sun care product sales brought in over a billion dollars in 2005, with sun protection accounting for the lion’s share—more than $820 million. According to Euromonitor International, mass sales reached $786.7 million, while prestige sun protection products brought in just over $34 million. Tony Guiliano, president of consumer brands for Del-Ray Dermatologicals, Johnson City, TN, explained, “Consumers are more concerned with exposure to UV light and sun protection, just witness the significant growth in the sun protection segment of the sun care category, which now exceeds the sun tanning products segment. Consumers are becoming savvier about sun protection. They know it’s not just about protection from burning, but about blocking UVA rays—those responsible for aging, wrinkling and skin cancer.” Casi Hudson agreed. “Consumers are absolutely becoming more concerned—and more informed—about the damaging effects of UV exposure. While it’s best to avoid UV rays, we all know that is next to impossible. This is precisely why a quality sunscreen is critical. Arming oneself with an appropriate level of SPF and formulations created with ingredients that are safe, gentle and effective is the best way to protect skin from potential damage.” Added Mr. Miller, “The market seems to be trending toward higher SPF protection products. In addition, our research indicates that sun care consumers look for non-greasy, fast absorbing products that have a pleasant fragrance and won’t irritate their skin.” According to Information Resources, Inc. (IRI), Chicago, IL, the top sellers of sun care lotions in 2005 were Banana Boat, Coppertone, private label, Hawaiian Tropic and Neutrogena. The major brands all have launches in 2006 with intent to remain favorites with consumers. Banana Boat has new additions to its UltraMist Continuous Spray line, with Sport SPF 30 Continuous Clear Spray, Ultra Sunblock SPF 30 Continuous Clear Spray and UltraMist Kids SPF 50 Continuous Lotion Spray with a fruity fragrance. The 6oz. sprays are waterproof, hypoallergenic, quick drying, non- greasy and oil-free. They offer broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection and retail for $9.99. In 2006, new Coppertone Kids Continuous Spray Sunscreen (SPF 50) and Continuous Spray Dry Oil Sunscreen (SPF 10) will join the sunscreen line. Coppertone will also add SPF 15 formulations of Sport Continuous Spray Sunscreen and Continuous Spray Sunscreen. Six ounces costs $9.99.
Beach Babies
Challenges abound when applying sun protection to children and babies. Kids traditionally squirm away when parents try to apply sunscreen, objecting to the smell, the sting and being held down for application. Hawaiian Tropic’s Ms. Mellenberndt said that many of the major manufacturers recognize the need for specialized sun care for children.
Soaking It All In
Despite all that is known about the dangers of sun worshipping, many beach-creatures still like to bronze the old fashioned way, by lying out in the sun for extended periods of time. For these consumers, Banana Boat’s Dark Tanning SPF 4 Continuous lotion spray helps prevent dryness, peeling and flaking for a naturally dark tan. Enriched with tropical oil and cocoa butter, the lightweight, sheer lotion formula is available in a banana coconut-rum fragrance at $9.99 for 6oz. Hawaiian Tropic’s T2 Max Extreme Tanning body butter absorbs quickly to help prepare skin to tan. In addition, it helps build and extend tans while soothing and calming skin. The non-sticky formula has vitamins A, C and E, cocoa, shea and mango butters, and a coconut-nectar fragrance.
After Sundown
For those who go to the trouble of getting a tan, it makes sense to preserve it. According to Euromonitor, last year after-sun products had sales of $22.5 million. But after-sun products are geared for more than just extending the life of a tan; newer formulations also stress relaxation, skin care and anti-aging properties as well. Teeka Tan After-Sun Tan Extender moisturizing lotion and After-Sun Skin Replenisher with Carrot Oil Ultra-Moisturizing lotionhelp prevent peeling while extending a tan. The light, non-greasy formulas contain aloe, cocoa butter, collagen (which helps prevent premature aging and wrinkles), vitamins A, C and E, and other natural skin conditioners to soothe, moisturize and replenish skin. Both 8oz. pumps retail for $8.99. Hawaiian Tropic extended its tan-extending moisturizing line with the new Lime Coolada Moisturizer with shea, cocoa and mango butters. The product contains aloe vera, vitamins and collagen to revive sun-baked, dry skin.
Will Sun Care Stay Strong?
Euromonitor International forecasts that U.S. sun care sales will reach $1.25 billion by 2010, as the Baby Boomers reach retirement age but refuse to back away from an active lifestyle. “And not only is the sun protection segment of the sun care category growing at a significant pace, but so is overall consumption of sun care/skin care products,” said Mr. Guiliano of Del-Ray Dermatologicals. Mr. Miller said sun care and cosmetic formulations are converging.
“I think it is a great time to be a consumer of sun care products. New brands, new products and increased competition force everyone to bring the best of the best to marketplace,” he said. “After sun and damage repair products, along with the higher SPFs, should really shine as the Baby Boomers once again make their mark.” Ms. Hudson identified several significant trends in the sun care category. “First, consumers are recognizing the importance of natural and organic formulations,” she commented. “They are becoming more educated on the benefits of natural beauty and making wise, informed decisions in their skin and sun care purchases. Second, 2-in-1 products that protect against sun damage and provide anti-aging benefits are in high demand. Sun care and skin care really go hand in hand, and when you take the proper precautions against sun damage, you are also helping combat the aging process. “The final trend that continues to be popular is the sun-alternative product,” she concluded. “Many people still avoid the sun at all costs, yet want to enjoy a toned, tanned look. The best way to achieve this look while minimizing the risks of sun damage is with a quality self-tanner or bronzer.” Ms. Mellenberndt believes convenience matters most to sun care users. “Innovation in formula and packaging are drivers in this category,” she stated. “Convenience will more than likely continue to drive new innovation in an effort to help simplify the lives of the consumers.”
Looking for a new ingredient to incorporate into your sun care product? A list of them is provided below.
Here are new sun care ingredients introduced by suppliers in the past 12 months. For more information about the products listed here, contact the supplier directly at the numbers provided.
Biochemica International
Melbourne, FL Tel: (321) 254-3444 Fax: (321) 242-9507 E-mail: info@biochemica.com Website: www.biochemica.com Coffee Butter INCI name: Coffea arabica (coffee) seed oil and hydrogenated vegetable oil Use levels: 3-100% pure (as a butter-like balm) Applications: Creams, lotions and balms Comments: Adds moisturizing attributes to creans, lotions and bar soaps. Murumuru Butter INCI name: Astrocaryum murumuru butter Use levels: 3-100% pure (as a balm) Applications: Creams, lotions and balms Comments: Adds moisturizing attributes to creans, lotions, balms and bar soaps. Brazil Nut Oil INCI name: Berthorlletia excelsa seed oil Use levels: 3-100% Comments: Will not stain clothing, making it an ideal tanning or massage oil.
Caribbean Aloe Vera, Inc.
Franklin Lakes, NJ Tel: (201) 560-0246 Fax: (201) 560-0245 E-mail: info@caribbeanaloe.com Website: www.caribbeanaloe.com Mafura Butter INCI name: Trichilla emetica seed butter Use levels: 5-10% Applications: After Sun Products Comments: Mafura butter is rich in essential fatty acids, it is extremely nourishing and restructures the epidermis. It soothes skin irritations and has a revitalizing effect. PNJ Jojoba Esters 20 INCI name: Jojoba esters Use levels: 5-10% Applications: Sun care products Comments: PNJ Jojoba Esters 20 is a white, soft, oil-free, trans-free moisturizing cream with a buttery consistency that provides body to sun care products, liquid makeup, and treatment creams. Erythrulose INCI name: L-erythrulose Use levels: 4-6% Applications: Sunless tanning products Comments: Erythrulose is a natural keto-sugar derived from berries. Used in self-tanning formulas to provide a natural color and reduce skin dryness, thus enhancing and extending the tan.
Centerchem
Norwalk, CT Tel: (203) 882-9800 Fax: (203) 882-9820 E-mail: cosmetics@centerchem.com Website: www.centerchem.com Hydromanil INCI name: Water, propylene glycol, glycerin, caesolpinia spinosa oligosaccharides, caesalpinia spinosa gum Use levels: 2.0-10.0% Applications: Facial care, cosmetics Comments: Hydromanil is a novel moisturizing active compound that acts as a sequential delivery system of small molecules, resulting in a final combined moisturizing effect: immediate and long-lasting moisturizing. The recommended use levels depend on the desired degree of moisturization, from the basic and immediate to the cumulative and longer-lasting, and on the presence of other moisturizing components in the formulation. Pepha-Protect INCI name: Water, glycerin, citrullus lanatus (watermelon) fruit extract. Use levels: 1.0-3.0% Applications: Sun care products, hair care, facial care Comments: Pepha-Protect is a highly purified watermelon extract that protects the DNA in skin cells from the damage caused by UV-light induced free radicals. Pepha-Protect contains naturally-occuring vitamins, carbohydrates and amino acids acids such as Citrulline. These molecules easily penetrate into the skin and protect the DNA of the skin’s fibroblasts and keratinocytes. In in vivo tests, a cream containing 3% Pepha-Protect was applied to volunteers twice daily for one month. The MED of all volunteers was measured on day 0 and day 28. On completion of the study, 60% of the volunteers exhibited up to 25% protection level against erythema caused by UV irradiation. Stable in formulations with the pH range of 3-6.
Ciba Specialty Chemicals
High Point, NC Tel: (336) 801-2000 Fax: (336) 801-2051 Website: www.cibasc.com/personalcare Tinovis ADM INCI name: Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) mineral oil (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6 Use levels: 0.35-1.5% Applications: Cream sunscreens, daily wear SPF protection, after-sun cream Comments: Tinovis ADM is used in sunscreen products to thicken the product and also help evenly distribute the sunscreen active on the skin.
Cognis Corp.
Ambler, PA Tel: (800) 531-0815 Fax: (215) 628-1450 Website: www.cognis-us.com Herbalia Soy INCI name: Soy isoflavones Use levels: 0.25-0.5% Applications: Sun care lotions and creams, after-sun products Comments: Herbalia soy is a dry, GMO-free, standardized extract on 40% isoflavones. Isoflavones (natural phytoestrogens) compose a family of polyphenols that are powerful antioxidants, making Herbalia soy an excellent active for prevention of skin aging. Herbalia White Tea INCI name: Camellia sinesis leaf extract Use levels: 0.25-0.5% Applications: Sun care lotions and creams, after-sun products Comments: Herbalia white tea is a purified extract consisting of 85% polyphenols. The polyphenols from tea extracts have antioxidant activity superior to that of any other known naturally occurring antioxidants. Plus, these polyphenols are responsible for anti-inflammatory effects, photo-protection and chemo-protection of the skin. DN-Age LS 9653 INCI name: Water (and) glycerin (and) cassia alata leaf extract Use levels: 1-3% Applications: Sun care lotions and creams, after-sun products Comments: DN-Age LS 9784 is a natural phyto-chemical active extracted from the candle tree (Cassia alata) containing an identified tracer. It has demonstrated photo-aging protection by supporting the natural repairing process of the cells. Clinical studies have shown improvement of microrelief of skin after UV exposure. This combination of repair and prevention of UV-induced skin alterations makes DN-Age LS 9784 the choice active to use in sun care products for face and body.
Croda, Inc.
Edison, NJ Tel: (732) 417-0800 Fax: (732) 417-0804 E-mail: marketing@crodausa.com Website: www.crodausa.com Crodasperse INCI name: Sorbitan isostearate (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) Di-PPG-3 myristyl ether adipate Use levels: 10-5-% Applications: Sunscreens, color cosmetics Comments: A unique blend designed to be a highly efficient dispersing agent for inorganic pigments such as TiO2, ZnO and inorganic color pigments. Allows for the use of common low energy equipment to make the dispersions required for sun care products, color cosmetics and other personal care applications. Phytessence French Rose INCI name: Water (and) butylene glycol (and) rosa gallica flower extract Use levels: 2-7% Applications: Anti-aging creams, sun and after-sun products, body care, sensitive skin products Comments: Guards against UV mediated premature skin aging by enhancing the skin cells’ natural detoxification response. Also reduces the production of free radicals. Crodamazon Buriti INCI name: Mauritia flexuosa fruit oil Use levels: 1-5% Applications: Sun and after-sun products, anti-aging and baby care, chemically-damaged hair treatments Comments: Natural anti-irritant and skin healing properties. It can be used in after sun care products to relieve sunburn and in baby products to sooth irritation from diaper rash. It is also proven effective in increasing the strength of dyed, damaged hair.
Degussa AG, Goldschmidt GmbH
Essen, Germany Tel: +49 201 173 2854 Fax: +49 201 173 1828 E-mail: heidrun.stehmann@degussa.com Website: www.degussa-personal-care.com TEGO Cosmo C 100 INCI name: Creatine Use levels: 0.5-1.4% Applications: After-sun lotion Comments: TEGO Cosmo C 100 revitalizes the skin by boosting the protein synthesis/synthesis of enzymes responsible for DNA repair while sunburned cells are reduced. SK-Influx INCI name: Ceramide 3; ceramide 6II; ceramide 1; phytosphingosine; cholesterol; sodium lauroyl lactylate; carbomer; xanthan gum Use levels: 1.5-5% Applications: After-sun lotion Comments: SK-Influx mimics the natural structure of the lipid barrier of the skin. It reinforces the stratum corneum and minimizes skin sensitivity. Isolan GPS INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/ polyhydroxystearate/ sebacatem Use levels: 2-3% Applications: W/O sun lotions Comments: Emulsifier for low viscous W/O lotions with very light skin feel. Excellent stabilization properties even at low concentrations.
Desert Whale Jojoba Co.
Tucson, AZ Tel: (520) 882-4195 Fax: (520) 882-7821 E-mail: marketing@desertwhale.com Website: www.desertwhale.com Jojoba Glaze LV, HV, EV INCI name: Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil (and) ethylene/propylene /styrene copolymer (and) butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer Use levels: 3-15% Applications: Sunscreen, after-sun moisturizers, tanning oils Comments: Jojoba Glaze is a transparent, colorless viscuous gel offered in three viscosities. It is excellent at suspending physical sunscreens like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. ISO Jojoba 35 and 50 INCI name: Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) butter Use levels: 5-15% Applications: Tanning lotions, protective lip balms Comments: ISO Jojoba is a non-greasy, oxidative stable butter that enhances cushion in skin care products, imparting a more luxurious skin feel.
Dow Corning Corp.
Midland, MI Tel: (989) 496-4000 Fax: (989) 496-1590 E-mail: lifesciences@dowcorning.com Website: www.dowcorning.com 5562 Carbinol Fluid INCI name: Bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone Use levels: 3-10% Applications: Sun care, color cosmetic, moisturizers Comments: Clear colorless liquid with good wetting properties. Provides superior particulate suspension with easy formulation capabilities with a light, smooth, lubricious non-tacky feel. Enhances SPF. Broad compatibility profile with polar and non polar solvents. 670 Fluid INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) polypropylsilesquioxane Use levels: 3-10% Applications: Sun care, color cosmetic Comments: Very good film former, improving wash off resistance with no greasy feel. Improved compatibility with sunscreens and pigments compared to trimethylsiloxysilicate. Toray FZ2233 INCI name: Polysilicone-13 (proposed new INCI denomination: PEG/PPG-10/7 dimethicone copolymer). Use levels: 1-3% Applications: Sun care, color cosmetic, moisturizers, body care Comments: Unique ABn structure silicone polyether. Highly efficient W/Si and W/Si + organic oil emulsifiers at low use level. Resulting emulsions are very creamy with low particle size and narrow distribution for improved freeze/thaw and high temperature stability. Tolerate high pigment load. Very easy to use without the need of homogenization step. Helps the dispersion of pigment and physical sunscreens in cyclopentasiloxane.
DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.
Parsippany, NJ Tel: (800) 526-0189 E-mail: nutraaccess.parsippany@dsm.com Website: www.nutraaccess.com ALL-QTM (Coenzyme Q10) Plus INCI name: Ubiquinone Use levels: 0.5-2%, 4% for specialized skin care applications Applications: Recommended for almost all product types
Extracts & Ingredients Ltd.
Union, NJ Tel: (908) 688-9009 Fax: (908) 688-9005 E-mail: sales@morretec.com Website: www.morretec.com Cold Pressed Pomegranate Seed Oil INCI name: Punica granatum Use levels: 0.1-0.5% Applications: SPF booster and free radical scavenger Comments: Pomegranate seed oil can increase SPF naturally while providing emolliency and anti-aging protection. Olivoil Emulsifier INCI name: Olivoyl hydrolyzed wheat protein Use levels: 2-10% Applications: Sunscreen creams and lotions Comments: Olivoil Emulsifier is a PEG-free all-vegetal emulsifier combining the fatty acid profile of olive oil with the soothing effects of hydrolized wheat protein. Provides skin protection and skin repair characteristics. Natural Alpha-Bisabolol INCI name: Bisabolol Use levels: 0.1-0.2% Applications: Sunscreens, after-sun Comments: Natural a-bisabolol is an effective anti-irritant and anti-reddening ingredient derived from all-natural rainfaorest (plantation) sources. The liquid is water white with a mild woodsy aroma.
International Specialty Products
Wayne, NJ Tel: (973) 628-4000 Fax: (973) 628-4001 E-mail: info@ispcorp.com Website: www.ispcorp.com ISP Beauty Butters—Refined Shea Butter INCI name: Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) Use levels: 1.0-25% Applications: Sunscreens, daily-wear sun protection products, after-sun products Comments: ISP offers a high-quality shea butter for the global personal care industry. Refined shea butter is of the highest purity with a high content of natural unsaponifiables. This stable and easy-to-formulate ingredient improves rheology and imparts body, allowing for the design of elegant finished formulations. It melts at body temperature, making it an ideal emollient for personal care applications. ProLipid 161 INCI name: Behenyl alcohol (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) hydroxyethyl cetearamidopropyldimonium chloride Use levels: up to 10% Applications: Sunscreen lotions, milks, aerosol mousses, daily-wear sun protection products, after-sun products Comments: As an active ingredient, ProLipid 161 forms lamellar gel structurant that moisturizes skin by reinforcing the skin’s natural barrier. It has a silky rub-out with medium to long playtime resulting in a pleasant, soft, silky skin after-feel. ProLipid 161 enhances the foam quality in mousse formulations due its hydrophobic monoalkyl quaternary compound. X-Tend 226 INCI name: Phenethyl benzoate Use levels: 2-20% Applications: Sunscreens, daily wear sun protection products, after-sun products Comments: X-Tend 226 has high solubilizing capacity for solid organic sunscreen materials such as oxybenzone and avobenzone. Another key attribute is that it can boost the critical wavelength and the UVA/UVB ratio of some formulations. It is a relatively light ester that helps counteract the oily feel of sunscreen actives.
Kobo Products, Inc.
South Plainfield, NJ Tel: (908) 757-0033 Fax: (908) 757-0905 E-mail: info@koboproductsinc.com Website: www.koboproducts.com Koboguard 5400 CCT INCI name: Hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene (and) capric/caprylic triglyceride Use levels: 5-20% Applications: Sunscreens, skin care and decorative cosmetics Comments: An adhesive film-forming material used to improve long wear (substantivity) and water resistance, impart gloss and improve rub resistance. Sunsil 130H-SC INCI name: Silica and methicone Use levels: 2-15% Applications: sun care, skin care, makeup Comments: Hydrophobically treated silica used to reduce the look and feel of oiliness. Skin sensory enhancer. JTT0-MS7 INCI name: Titanium dioxide and alumina and methicone Use levels: 3-25% Applications: Sun care, skin care, makeup Comments: A methicone treated nanofine Ti02 for enhanced SPF products.
Lipo Chemicals, Inc.
Paterson, NJ Tel: (973) 345-8600 Fax: (973) 345-8365 E-mail: salesandmarketing@lipochemicals.com Website: www.lipochemicals.com Lipovol WIRA INCI name: Plukenetia voubilis seed oil Use levels: N/A Applications: Emollient oil shows much improvement for dry and sensitive skin and is used in facial creams, body lotions, sun care products, anti-aging/anti-wrinkle treatments, sensitive skin treatments, hair care products. Hydrillien 9 INCI name: Sodium acrylates/acrylonitrogens copolymer Use levels: .5-2.5% Applications: Hydrillien 9 imparts a variety of unique properties to gels and emulsions (emulsifier-free emulsions, film formers, electrolyte tolerant, clear gels), pseudoplastic behavior and adds a smooth, silky feel to oils and polymers.
New Phase Technologies
Sugar Land, TX Tel: (888) 562-9797 Fax: (281) 276-5669 E-mail: newphase@bakerpetrolite.com Website: www.newphasepolymers.com Performa V 1608 Polymer INCI name: C30-38 olefin/isopropyl maleate/MA copolymer Use levels: 0.5-1% Applications: Film former that boosts SPF and provides water resistance in sunscreens utilizing either organic or inorganic actives.
Performa V 825 Polymer INCI name: Synthetic wax Use levels: 1-8% Comments: Effective film former in anhydrous systems which boosts SPF, provides water resistance and a light feel. Non-tacky, non-greasy film former.
Noveon, Inc.
Cleveland, OH Tel: (216) 447-5000 Fax: (216) 447-5740 E-mail: amy.dolzine@noveon.com Website: www.noveon.com Schercemol PDD Ester INCI name: Diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate Use levels: 0.5-50% Applications: Sun care, skin care color cosmetics Comments: Whether used at low levels to impart water-resistant properties to a sunscreen, or as a base in an extended-wear, smudge-proof color cosmetics formulation, this specialty ester provides exceptionally long-lasting coverage. Ultrabee 25 Silicone INCI name: Bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone beeswax esters Use levels: 1-5% Applications: SPF booster, conditioning for hair and skin Comments: Increases SPF level by providing more uniform surface coverage of active ingredients in sun care formulations. Compatible with both organics and silicones, it is very easy to use.
Presperse, Inc.
Somerset, NJ Tel: (732) 356-5200 Fax: (732) 356-3533 E-mail: samples@presperse.com Website: www.presperse.com Gemseal 25 INCI name: C13-15 alkane Use levels: 1-50% Applications: Skin care, hair care, personal care, color cosmetics, sun care, bath/spa products Comments: Highly pure, low viscosity, non-VOC with dry, light feel. Gemseal 40 INCI name: C15-19 alkane Use levels: 1-50% Applications: skin care, hair care, personal care, color cosmetics, sun care, bath/spa products Comments: Highly pure, low viscosity, non-VOC with dry, light feel Gemseal 60 INCI name: C18-21 alkane Use levels: 1-50% Applications: Skin care, hair care, personal care, color cosmetics, sun care, bath/spa products Comments: Highly pure, low viscosity, non-VOC with dry, light feel
RITA
Crystal Lake, IL Tel: (815) 337-2500/(800) 426-7759 Fax: (815) 337-2522 E-mail: info@ritacorp.com Website: www.ritacorp.com Ggel INCI name: Dimethicone, ethylhehexyl palmitate, quaternium-90 bentonite, propylene carbonate Use levels: 1-50% Applications: Oil gelling, film forming, stabilizer for silicone-in-water emulsions Comments: Ggel is a silky soft paste that can be easily spread over the skin leaving behind an invisible hydrophobic film of ultra thin, organo-clay platelets on the skin. It delivers a light, lubricious skin feel, enhances product stability and provides excellent suspension for pigments, inorganic UV sunscreens, actives, dispersions, scrub particles and emulsions. Rovisome ACE INCI name: Water, lecithin, alcohol, tocopheryl acetate, magnesium ascrobyl phosphate, retinyl palmitate, phenoxyethanol, benzoic aicd, dehydroacetic acid Use levels: 1-5% Applications: Aftersun, anti-aging, antioxidant, wrinkle reduction, moisturizing, skin tightening, radical scavenger, protection against oxidative stress, sun protection, carrier system Comments: A skin care complex of liposomally encapsulated vitamins to prevent premature aging and regenerate the skin. Rovisome Q10 INCI name: Water, alcohol, lecithin, ubiquinone Use levels: 1-5% Applications: Aftersun, anti-aging, anti-oxidant, wrinkle reduction, moisturizing, skin tightening, penetration, radical scavenger, protection against oxidative stress, carrier system, vitalizing Comments: Q10, an energy supplier, supports the regeneration processes of the skin and increases skin smoothness.
RTD*Hallstar, Inc.
Hackettstown, NJ Tel: (908) 852-6128 Fax: (908) 852-1335 E-mail: rtdhallstar@cphall.com Website: www.rtdhallstar.com Polycrylene INCI name: Polyester-8 Use levels: 2-4% Applications: Sun protection formulas, especially those that contain avobenzone Comments: Synergistically improves the UVA protection factor when used in conjunction with Corapan TQ. Improves the substantivity of sunscreen formulations as measured by resistance to wash-off. Polycrylene is a viscous liquid that, when added to the oil phase, will readily dissolve with the application of heat (>50°C) and stirring. HallGel 305 INCI name: Polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, laureth-7 Use levels: 1-3% Applications: Translucent or opaque aqueous dispersions and oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions (creams and lotions) Comments: HallGel 305 is a glycol-, glycerin- and coated zinc oxide-compatible thickener and viscosity stabilizer. After hydration, it retains its viscosity and yield value building properties, even at high temperature. HallGel 305 is a translucent to opaque, slightly viscous liquid dispersion that is best added to the aqueous phase or pre-formed emulsion at temperatures between 15-45°C.
Sabinsa
Piscataway, NJ Tel: (732) 777-1111 Fax: (732) 777-1443 E-mail: info@sabinsa.com Website: www.sabinsa.com Coffee Bean Extract INCI name: Coffea arabica seed extract Use levels: 0.5-2% Applications: Antioxidant Comments: Contains minimum 60% chlorogenic acid Rosmarinic Acid 90% INCI name: Rosmarinic acid Use levels: 0.02-0.09% Applications: Antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory Comments: Contains minimum 90.0% rosmarinic acid
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies—LCW
Saint Quen L’Aumône, France Tel: (011) 33-01-34-48-57-00 Fax: (011) 33-01-34-64-44-40 E-mail: lcw@lcw.fr Website: www.lcw.fr Covacryl P12 INCI name: Acrylates copolymer Use levels: 0.5-25% Applications: Sun care emulsions (O/W) Comments: Film-forming agent for dispersions of mineral sunscreens, water-resistant and long-lasting effect.
Seppic
Fairfield, NJ Tel: (973) 882-5597 Fax: (973) 882-5178 E-mail: pcseppicinc@airliquide.com Website: www.seppic.com Sepiplus 400 INCI name: Polyacrylate-13, polyisobutene, polysorbate 20 Use levels: Up to 5% Applications: Sun care, skin care, makeup, hair care Comments: Ready to use at low use levels, hydroswelling droplet emulsifying/ thickening polymer that results in a supple teture. Sepicalm S INCI name: Sodium cocoyl amino acids, sarcosine, potassium aspartate, magnesium aspartate Use levels: 3% Applications: Skin care Comments: Soothing agent suitable for after sun that provides complete protection from external aggressions and a sensorial experience of well being. Extramel C INCI name: Hydroxpropyltrimonium maltodextrin crosspolymer (and) cucumis melo (melon) fruit extract Use levels: 0.1% Applications: Skin care Comments: Melon-derived antioxidant cocktail with known SOD stabilized activity and photoprotection properties.
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America
Akron, OH Tel: (330) 630-9860/(800) 544-1745 Fax: (330) 630-9855 Website: www.shinetsusilicones.com KSG-210 INCI name: Dimethicone (and) PEG-10/15 dimethicone crosspolymer Use levels: 3.5-7% Applications: Skin lotions and creams, anti-aging products, sun care, fragrance gels, fragrance-free products, color cosmetics and hair styling products Comments: A polyether functionalized silicone elastomer gel dispersed in 6 cs dimethicone. It is a 30% actives, essentially odorless, emulsification vehicle. Designed to be a versatile, easy-to-use formulation vehicle to formulate emulsions with diverse skin feel by controlling the particle size and internal phase volume. Fresh and light feel can be obtained with larger particle sizes and moisturized feel can be obtained with smaller sizes. It also offers exceptionally silky and smooth feel properties typical of an elastomer gel. Particularly useful for formulas requiring formulation space in the oil phase; e.g., ultra high SPF sunscreens and makeups. Most importantly, KSG-210 allows low energy emulsification. In fact, homogenization is discouraged. Ambient process is possible if all ingredients are liquid. USG-103 INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone/vinyldimethicone cross- polymer Use levels: Emulsions (3-25%), anhydrous (15-90%), hair products (1-5%) Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; sun care; fragrance gels; color cosmetics; anhydrous serums, gels and waxes; hair styling products and shower conditioners Comments: This patented multifunctional sensory enhancer series with high elastomer content is a cost-effective solution. It offers an exceptionally silky, soft and smooth feel during application and dries down to a silky powdery after-feel with no residue. It is designed to be an effective gellant for various oils, including low molecular weight organic esters and oils. When added to the oil phase, it helps stabilize both w/o and o/w emulsions. Delivers a luxurious skin feel with an affordable price. KF-6038 INCI name: Lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone Use levels: 1-5% Applications: Skin lotions and creams, anti-aging products, sun care, color cosmetics and hair styling products Comments: A patented, multi-functional emulsifier for water-in-oil and water-in-silicone emulsions. Particularly effective in stabilizing water-in-oil sunscreens without a heavy, greasy feel. It has a unique branched architecture in which the polysiloxane backbone is modified with polysiloxane chains as well as polyethers and organic groups. The alkyl functional groups are responsible for the compatibility with organic UV filters, and the branched polysiloxane chains are designed to offer compatibility with silcones and silicone-like skin feel. KF-6038 can emulsify oils ranging from 100% silicone to 100% organic. Cold process is possible if all ingredients are liquids.
Sinerga S.P.A.
Milan, Italy Tel: (39) 02 33940133 Fax: (39) 02 33940138 E-mail: info@sinerga.it Website: www.sinerga.it Tyrosinol INCI name: Caproyl tyrosine, sorbitan isostearate, glyceryl oleate Use levels: 3-5% Applications: Compatible with traditional cosmetic ingredients Comments: A peculiar form of tyrosine soluble in lipophilic systems. Useful for formulating emulsions, lipogels, anhydrous pastes, sun oils and after-sun products. Tyrostan INCI name: Potassium caproyl tyrosine Use levels: 3-5% (lower levels may be used for maintenance products) Applications: Self-tanner and sun care products during exposure and after-sun products. Stability over time has been confirmed in cleansers, gels and emulsions Comments: Tyrostan is a water-soluble, lipoaminoacid, obtained Nanocream INCI name: Potassium lauroyl wheat amino acids, palm glycerides, capryloyl glycine Use levels: 2-10%, depending on the oil phase. To obtain nanoemulsions, add oil phase to Nanocream and melt. While stirring, slowly add the water phase. Homogenize if necessary. Applications: Compatible with all the substances normally used in cosmetics Comments: Emulsifier indicated for fluid O/W emulsions with particularly low particle size of the droplets. Easily vehicles several functional cosmetic ingredients, respecting the natural situation of aggregation of hydrophilic and lipophilic cutaneous factors.
Symrise, Inc.
Teterboro, NJ Tel: (201) 288-3200 Fax: (201) 462-2200 E-mail: communications@symrise Website: www.symrise.com Corapan TQ INCI name: Diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate Use levels: Up to 5% Applications: Sun care Comments: Photostabilizer and multi-functional emollient. Confers photostability to the UVA-filter butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane to improve the SPF of sun care formulations Zinc Oxide Pl INCI name: Zinc oxide Use levels: Up to 25% Applications: Cost-effective sun care, daily care, baby care and pharmaceutical products Comments: Pigmentary zinc oxide with primary particle size of 400nm
Tagra Biotechnologies Ltd.
Netanya, Israel Tel: (972) 9-865-6454 Fax: (972) 9-865-4278 E-mail: tagra@efal.com Website: www.tagra.com Tagrol H1 INCI name: Polymethyl methacrylate, hippophea rhamnoides oil, BHA Use levels: 0.5-2.0% Applications: After-sun lotion Comments: Tagrol H provides anti-aging and skin regeneration properties which are ideal for damaged skin. Tagrol MENT1 INCI name: Menthol, polymethyl methacrylate, tricaprylin Use levels: 1.0% Applications: After-sun cooling lotion Comments: Multi-functional, after-sun cream containing odorless, microcapsulated menthol which provides a cooling and soothing effect for the skin. Tagravit E1 INCI name: Tocopherol, polymethyl methacrylate, BHA, tricaprylin Use levels: 0.5-2.0% Applications: Sunscreens Comments: Tagravit E1 acts as an anti-radical agent on the skin, scavenging free radicals released during the harmful radiation caused by the sun.
Tri-K Industries, Inc.
Northvale, NJ Tel: (201) 750-1055 Fax: (201) 750-9785 E-mail: info@tri-k.com Website: www.tri-k.com Cehami PF INCI name: Centipeda cunninghamii extract Use levels: 3-25% Applications: Anti-inflammatory, cell renewal Comments: Has the ability to reduce skin inflammation and increase cell renewal, making it the perfect ingredient for UV-damaged skin. Boost-A-Zyme INCI name: Lecithin (and) saccharomyces selenium ferment (and) wasabia japonica root extract (and) yeast extract (and) zinc sulfate Use levels: 1-3% Applications: Antioxidant Comments: A combination of bioactive trace minerals and chemoprotective agents which boost the activity of skin’s natural antioxidant enzymes.
U.S. Cosmetics
Dayville, CT Tel: (860) 779-3990 Fax: (860) 779-3994 E-mail: sales@us-cosm.com Website: www.us-cosm.com Lunawhite B INCI name: Oenothera biennis (evening primrose) seed extract Use levels: 2-3% Applications: Sun and after-sun products, daily skin care Comments: Aqueous extract of evening primrose seed contains six polyphenols having anti-aging (collagenase and elastase inhibition) and antioxidant functionality. Bio-PGA Solution INCI name: Diglycerin Use levels: 1-5% Applications: Sun and after-sun products, daily skin care Comments: Excellent humectant and moisturizer. Provides better fragrance retention on the skin than glycerin.
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