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A roundtable discussion with leading testing companies in the personal care and cosmetics industry.
October 3, 2022
By: Christine Esposito
Managing Editor
Selling a vegan mascara that wasn’t screened first for sensitivity. Launching a new facial sunscreen but skipped the full range of Fitzpatrick skin types. Forgoing microbial testing. These are missteps that can send a beauty brand on a path toward poor sales, not to mention issues with product safety from which recovery could be lengthy, if not impossible. It is no way to win over consumers in today’s competitive marketplace. Instead, savvy brands make testing service providers a critical partner throughout their product development process. This continues to become more essential as category needs and consumer trends are always shifting—think rising demand for more inclusive and gender-free cosmetics, vegan formulations and products that support a healthy microbiome to name just a few. In addition, testing service companies, their customers and consumers are coming back from the pandemic—which has shifted concerns and priorities— and no company has been untouched by the challenges of supply chain shortages and rising inflation. Happi checked in with leading providers in testing about key issues and how they are helping brands across beauty, personal care and home care navigate a challenging landscape, back their claims with data and keep safe products on the shelf. Our experts include staff from Advanced Science Laboratories, Charles River Laboratories, Comprehensive Research Group, Consumer Product Testing Company, Genemarkers, InVitro International, Skinobs and Validated Claim Support. HAPPI: What are some of overarching issues impacting testing services in beauty and personal care and home care right now? Neil Zimbaldi of Advanced Science Laboratories, Inc.: Here at Advanced the safety of our panelists is our highest priority. This is why before conducting any human trial, multiple «safety checks» are in place. Passing RIPT and PET are good examples. We also utilize an in-house, in-vitro SPF screening procedure as an internal safety net (before any in-vivo work can commence) and for external R&D purposes. Since there is a very poor correlation between in-vitro and in-vivo data (plastic plate vs human skin), any interpretation of in-vitro work should be performed by trained and experienced technical staff. Recently we experienced a significant increase in misunderstanding among our new clients who seek to substantiate their label SPF claims via in-vitro methods, and not in-vivo. This is unprecedented and potentially very dangerous in our opinion. In situations such as this, we always take the time to properly inform these individuals to assure they fully understand the scope of their requests and the significant differences between in-vitro and in-vivo methods as well as US and International requirements for making SPF claims. Anne Wagner of Charles River Laboratories: Issues impacting microbial testing are sampling diversity and microbial identification accuracy. Contamination can come from anywhere and personal care product manufacturers are not required to test their environment regularly; however, the oness ??onus?? of product quality is on them. Microbial contamination is not homogeneous; without adequate sampling of your environment, you could potentially miss microorganisms that end up in your product. Additionally, when microbes are detected, it is essential that they are identified correctly. Misidentification can have serious impact. In 2021, Burkholderia pseudomallei was found in a mass market home spray, which led to illness and death of two people. Burkholderia pseudomallei is a hazardous and pathogenic microorganism, which has been misidentified before as non-pathogenic Burkholderia thailandensis. These two microorganisms are closely related; however, one is harmful, and one is harmless so if you do not have an accurate identification solution and relevant industry library to ID them correctly, it will critically impact consumer safety. Tracey Baubie of Comprehensive Research Group: There is an abundance of issues facing the beauty and personal care industry – many of which are not unique; e.g., uncertainty of an economic recession, anxiety over the long-term effects of a global pandemic, and maintaining and acquiring talent during the “great resignation.” While these challenges are not unique to the industry, the impact is nevertheless significant. Economic uncertainty has resulted in sponsoring companies tightening their budgets and fine-tuning their protocol designs with cost savings in mind, reducing subject base sizes and narrowing the scope of the inclusion/exclusion criteria. A budget-conscious industry has resulted in smaller, more narrowly tailored study designs of shorter duration. Alongside this change, we have seen a significant narrowing of the desired demographics for the subject participants. As I have said repeatedly this year, our clients are no longer asking us to find the proverbial needle in a haystack, but rather they are asking us to find a needle in a hayfield. The economy also has the subject population demanding greater compensation to participate in clinical trials. As inflation and gas prices rose this year, we saw a corresponding higher rate of subjects declining to participate or simply failing to show for their appointment. As a result, CRG has had to remain nimble in its recruitment efforts, including making greater inroads into the community and reaching well-beyond our ~50,000-person database. Likewise, while it will take years to fully understand the long-term effects of the pandemic on our industry, we are already seeing changes in consumer behavior that will drive product development. For many, the pandemic triggered a need for greater self-care. With that, many have looked to simplify their lives, including a more minimalistic approach to their beauty and personal care regimes. This trend will likely challenge the skin care industry, for example, to re-think the current “standard” of a multi-product skin care routine. A rising demand for a minimalistic approach, will of course, not alleviate the need for clinically-proven results substantiating the effectiveness of the product. The rising desire of a minimalistic approach to beauty and personal care, dovetails with the trend for individual specific care, particularly in the skin care market. Microbiome-focused skin care is exploding. The industry’s challenge is to innovate skin care products based on the unique flora living on the surface of our skin, encouraging a balanced microbiome environment for healthy skin. There are even at home “microbiome” test kits, aimed at helping consumers select the right products for them. Unfortunately, while microbiome-focused products are a hot topic, there is no clear consensus on what constitutes the optimal microbiome balance or what ingredients are best suited for a specific type of microbiome. Moreover, the production of products that “permanently” change microbiome on the skin has proven to be elusive to date. There is more to learn without question, but if the industry can overcome the scientific challenges, there is a whole new world of personalized beauty and personal care on the horizon for generations to come. Craig Weiss of Consumer Product Testing Company: As typical of a service business in the personal care industry, any regulatory issue real or imagined by our NGO critics have affected requests for new services. Our analytical chemistry department has been conducting testing for benzophenone, benzene and other impurities in sunscreens and other personal care products. With possible changes to the status of certain UV filters, we have seen an increase in mineral sunscreens being tested. With the move to more “clean” products we have seen more marginal preservation results for products in our microbiology department. “Microbiome safe” testing has also become a bigger issue in the past year. With the continued push to be socially-responsible products we are seeing more requests for invitro safety assay that don’t utilize animal cells. There also appears to be an increase in standard safety testing, which may be in response to the moves of many states to regulate the personal care industry. Rishabh Kala of Genemarkers: Genemarkers’ testing is primarily focused on efficacy, which is an overarching and constant need in the personal care industry. Understanding how materials and how combinations of materials work to elicit a biological response is an integral part of creating a superior product and maintaining brand loyalty. Of course, efficacy testing can include a range of more specific issues such as testing of products across a range of skin types, including different ethnicities, compromised and sensitive skin. Atul Jhalani of InVitro International: We believe the overarching issues impacting testing services now in these two areas are rooted in company practices and procedures, not necessarily in greater need for any new type of testing. Safety testing projects have begun to come back from covid-depressed times. Remote working conditions have impacted this generation and the speed with which projects (especially new products) move to testing. Normal development process has been slowed before testing services are involved in our experience. Anne Charpentier of Skinobs: Since the 1990s, the testing services dedicated to the beauty market are in the center of the product development from the really first R&D project initiation, the formulation, the regulatory affairs and finally the scientific communication around the safety and the performance of the actives or finished products. The preclinical assays that gather a big and varied range of tests such as in-vitro safety, in-tubo physico-chemical analysis, ecotoxicity, biodegradability, microbiology, content-container interaction, UV determination or efficacy evaluation among other are a part of testing that has constantly increased for more than 30 years. This is mainly due to the better knowledge of the skin biological mechanisms and the continuous discover of biomarkers involved in the several cutaneous pathways and the necessity to guarantee clean, safe and efficient products that meet the consumers requests. It is secondly due to the development of the assay supports that enable us to study the products not only on cells (fibroblasts, keratinocytes, melanocytes, etc.) but also on skin 3D models that mimick the skin with epidermis or full thickness models (dermis and epidermis). The technology to prepare these models is easier, and all testing laboratories can develop their own. In addition, these skin models can offer more complexity to be closer to the live skin offering additional annexes like neurons, capillaries, sebaceous glands and hair. Finally, the automatization of the in-vitro and ex-vivo processes make things easier…to study several test conditions (stress, homeostasis), several doses of products at different time. Jane Tervooren of Validated Claim Support: We have noticed a significant increase in requests regarding recruitment criteria requiring a widely diverse ethnic panel touching on all Fitzpatrick skin types. We are able to recruit most ethnicities, although historically some ethnic groups are more difficult to recruit than others due to cultural norms. Additionally, we have more and more requests opening up to “all genders” as opposed to strictly female-focused clinicals. HAPPI: What are some requests your company has received regarding testing over the past year? Zimbaldi of Advanced Science Laboratories: Long-wear studies for color cosmetics, makeup products and hair dyes continue to push their time limits. We have seen these claims grow from 8 hour “All Day” claims, to 18 and 24 hours, while dyes are now in the 25-wash range. On the opposite end of the testing spectrum, we have dramatic increases in antiperspirant and deodorant testing requests. We are able to accommodate these requests by utilizing our 25-seat walk-in Controlled Environmental Test Chamber followed by evaluations by our staff members specially trained in scent detection. Wagner of Charles River: Personal care product manufacturers are looking for faster microbial detection and accurate identification. Companies are asking us to help them save time, increase efficiencies and ensure product quality. They have a significant amount of time where inventory is stuck and waiting to be released from microbial hold. Our rapid detection method cuts down the waiting time and gets products out faster, so less inventory, less safety stock, and less warehouse space are needed. Our rapid method can also work with a wide range of products with compatibility across their portfolio to increase efficiencies. Equally important to follow detection, they are asking us to assist in getting an accurate microbial identification using our industry-leading proprietary library. They want a solutions partner that can support their microbial testing needs from raw materials to finished products, and has the experience, resources, and tools with the speed that they need it. Baubie of Comprehensive Research Group: One typical request we have seen this year is the request to test an ingestible product and its effect on skin health. Years ago we tested an ingestible probiotic, but we are now seeing a return of ingestible products aimed at skin health and a consumer desire for a more holistic approach to their beauty regime. This “beauty from within” approach has been popular internationally for some time, but it appears to be gaining popularity among US consumers. Accordingly, I expect more and more requests for testing of edible products that promise to support improved appearance of skin and hair. This inclusion of an ingestible into our clinical trials will be a change for our subject panelists, but we expect that they, like us, will embrace this addition to the industry’s standard testing protocols. Weiss of Consumer Product Testing Company: We regularly get requests for safety (clinical and invitro), efficacy, compatibility/stability and microbiologic testing from the personal care industry. Kala of Genemarkers: Prior to covid, we had frequently seen trends in requests for specific types of testing that aligned with trends in the industry. For example, at different points in time we had seen a large number of requests for testing products in concert with different environmental pollutants including, most recently, blue light. Prior to that we had seen a lot of interest in CBD testing and prior to that we had seen an increase in requests for epigenetic and microRNA expression studies. This past year has been a little different in that we have not seen a specific, single trend. This may have something to do with the fact that companies are still emerging from covid. The common thread among our testing requests has been to validate efficacy and/or identify novel mechanisms of action. Jhalani of InVitro International: Many beauty and personal care requests received this year centered around our recent Ocular Irritection (OI) OECD TG 496 adoption. OI is now the 1stand only 100% non-animal ocular irritation test method so adopted. The global interest has been for reasons of possible marketing advantages via test method used, as well as replacement of ex-vivo tests used prior. Lower cost, simplicity, time saved, and true 100% non-animal awareness have proved important. Charpentier of Skinobs: At Skinobs we receive daily questions regarding the methods and the protocols for all types of claims for skin hair or nails personal care. With more than 6000 users from 93 nationalities we gather statistics cosmetics chemists seek. We notice that the main searched claim for clinical tests include hydration, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, soothing, glowing, regenerating, anti-inflammatory and firming. For the in-vitro and ex-vivo assays, the popular claims include anti-aging, hydration, non-irritant, microbiota of the skin, anti-pollution, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, strengthens the skin barrier, antibacterial and, finally, anti-UVA. Tervooren of Validated Claim Support: We have had an increase in requests for general acne studies with a focus on high quality before and after clinical imaging. We’re also seeing a lot more CBD and secondary cannabinoid derivates that are expanding out into a wide range of anti-aging and anti-inflammatory use cases. VCS images are delivered fully marketing-ready, providing a powerful sales resource for our clients.
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