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Shampoos. Conditioners. Cleansing crèmes. No matter what tack a company takes, its products must make hair look great.
December 4, 2014
By: Christine Esposito
Managing Editor
Whether hair is color-treated or virgin, thick and curly or thinning, every consumer wants her hair to look its best. The starting point is shampoo and conditioner, according to hair care experts—well most of them anyway, as there’s a growing crop of companies in the category that want to see users shift away from their current regimen of lather, rinse and repeat with traditional shampoo and conditioner. Shampoo sales at US multi-outlets outlets rose 4.24% for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 5 to $2.7 billion and conditioner sales rose 5.44% to $1.9 billion, according to data from IRI, Chicago. Leading players like Procter & Gamble, Unilever, Alberto-Culver and L’Oréal command the largest shares of the category thanks to powerhouse brands like Pantene, Suave, Herbal Essences and Garnier. However Vogue International’s Organix brand holds the pole position—and that’s not too shabby for a line that was sued in 2013 by the Center for Environmental Health, has undergone a name change (it is now called OGX) and has been put up for sale. While investors have not stepped up so far, consumers are clearly buying the range. According to IRI, OGX shampoo sales rose 30.4% to $82 million and its hair conditioner/crème rinse posted a nearly 20% gain to $98.8 million. Vogue continues to expand the OGX brand, and next month will roll out new SKUs across three collections—Healing + Vitamin E, Moisture + Vitamin B5 and Hydrate + Repair Argan Oil of Morrocco Extra Strength. Each range includes shampoo and conditioner options that are paraben- and SLS-free, as well as leave-in products like oils and butters that feature exotic ingredients designed to attract attention in pharmacies like Walgreens and CVS as well as beauty outposts like Ulta. Calling out exotic ingredients and “free-from” claims are common threads running through the hair category as marketers continue to ask their chemists to formulate products that address a variety of issues ranging from lack of volume to frizziness to color loss to heat- and treatment-related damage hair. And in a sure nod to the chemists in the lab, the fruit of their labor is being reported by the men and women at the frontlines of hair styling. “Shampoo went from solely cleansing the hair to a preparatory foundation for great looking hair. Manufacturers have started paying more attention to the cleansing agents they use and making sure they don’t ‘strip’ the hair while also adding in restorative benefits,” said Rodney Cutler, Redken brand ambassador and owner of Cutler Salons in New York City. “Likewise, conditioner performs at a higher level in delivering the properties it promotes (volume, smoothing, etc.) while not weighing the hair down and causing it to be lifeless.” Cutler cited products such as Redken’s Extreme Shampoo and Extreme Strength Builder Plus, as examples. The first not only cleanses and restores the hair, but also features Redken’s Fortifying Complex and Interlock Protein Network (IPN) to strengthen and repair distressed hair for added shine hair. The latter, a rinse-out mask, contains the highest level of ceramide in the Extreme range, providing intense repair and conditioning to the core of the hair. Another area in which professionals like Cutler have seen great progress is color protection. “You want to maintain the tonality of the finished color look which is so important after investing in chemical services. You also want to avoid fading and retain health and vibrancy throughout the hair,” said Cutler, calling out Redken Color Extend Magnetics, as an option that “combines all three.” Redken also touts color caring options within two recent launches—Blonde Idol, which rolled out in May, and the Diamond Oil High Shine Collection, which debuted last month. Blonde Idol’s sulfate-free shampoo cleanses and softens blonde hair with lightweight moisture while the conditioner is an adjustable color depositing daily treatment. The Diamond Oil High Shine range includes a gel-based shampoo and conditioner that have suspending mica particles that add instant multi-faceted shine while cleansing and moisturizing. Pureology has addressed color needs with Curl Complete, the brand’s first system specifically for all types of color-treated curls and waves. With Curl Complete, Pureology promises 72 hours of frizz control and curl definition as a coconut oil-enriched formula re-substances curly hair’s color-treated hair fiber and resurfaces its naturally-occurring stress points. Repair and Restore Repair and restore moisture are tenants of the shampoo and conditioner category. In mass, Infusium23, is rolling out new formulas and redesigned packaging for 2015. The Helen of Troy-owned brand will debut Infusium23 Repair & Renew with Keratin & Argan Oil shampoo and conditioner (fortified with pro-vitamins, proteins and amino acids) and Infusium23 Moisture Replenisher with Avocado & Olive Oil shampoo and conditioner (which blend vitamins, minerals and antioxidants to maximize hydration and deliver moisture). Shampoos and conditioners designed to remove buildup and help bulk up thinning or damaged strands are also coveted. To that end Ouidad is rolling out Superfruit Renewal Clarifying Cream Shampoo, which the firm contends removes product buildup while nourishing the hair and infusing moisture instantly. This sulfate-free product features superfruit acids like açai, blueberry, cranberry, papaya and pomegranate as well as banana extract, according to the brand, which bills the SKU as a “must-have” in any weekly hair care regimen. From specialist brand Intelligent Nutrients comes PurePlenty, a new natural and organic regimen designed for men and women who suffer from thinning hair. While many factors contribute to thinning hair, including stress, nutrition and age, it is proven that thin hair lacks amino acids and keratin—and conventional hair care is known to strip both away, according to the company. “PurePlenty is different because it goes right to the source of thinning hair—the scalp,” said Nicole Rechelbacher, co-president, Intelligent Nutrients. The IN R&D team tapped plant stem cells to build density, support growth and inhibit DHT, the testosterone-derivative that shrinks scalp follicles and is known to slow hair growth. Key ingredients in the formulation include Ajuga plant stem cells, saw palmetto, pea sprout bioactives and nettle. PurePlenty Exfoliating Shampoo, which is said to open follicles for optimum growth and movement, is applied daily to dry hair with deep-reaching applicator that gets the product to the scalp. PurePlenty Density Building Conditioner is then applied to the hair (not scalp) to create density and volume, creating a thicker, shinier appearance, according to the brand. A top selling regimen at J.F. Lazartigue centers on hair loss too. The brand’s successful Stymulactine 21 shampoo works in tandem with Stymulactine 21 serum, which is formulated with silanol, an essential factor in the cellular activity of hair roots. The shampoo serves as a catalyst by increasing the scalp’s capacity for receptivity to the serum, noted Mary Pergoda, national training and promotions director for J.F. Lazartigue, which also prescribes an Intensive Scalp Revitalizer and Revitalizing Hair Nutrients (a supplement) to boost results. J.F. Lazartigue, which can be found in more than 70 countries worldwide in salons and pharmacies, also offers a Soy Milk Strengthening line for dry and delicate hair that uses GMO-free natural soy from Argentina. The New School While shampoo and conditioners remain the basic tools of the trade, more brands are out to change how consumers care for their hair via conditioning cleansers and cleansing creams. Wen by Chaz Dean put the concept in the mainstream consumer’s consciousness, and now established brands and new players are expanding the category looking to cash in. One of those new brands is Unwash. This Ventura, CA-based company bills itself as a completely new type of “co-washing brand” that is readying for a national launch next month, having quietly rolled its product out to about 500 salons. Unwash’s hero product is its Bio-Cleansing Conditioner, which it contends has a much lighter, thinner formulation than other co-wash brands. It contains hempseed oil, known to relieve dry, itchy scalp and add shine, and hydrolyzed keratin, which works to strengthen hair and reduce frizz. Additionally, trimethylsilylamodimethicone works in conjunction with these ingredients to create silky, natural hair that is easy to brush through post-washing, according to the company. “Unwash’s mission is to ‘rethink clean’ and encourage consumers to only use detergents when they are absolutely needed,” said Brandon Schwartz, director of marketing. “In our research we found that many consumers may not feel that hair is completely clean, or they are simply not ready to move completely over to co-washing. Since the heart of co-washing is the notion that shampoo should be removed from the daily routine, since it strips hair of the good oils that strands need to stay healthy, we created two products that work together on days when hair was in need of a bit more cleansing.” Those two products are its Anti-Residue Rinse, a gentle clarifier that removes dirt and product buildup, and Hydrating Masque, which replenishes moisture to hair. They are used in place of the Bio-Cleansing Conditioner as needed. “We found our consumers use these two products anywhere from once to twice a month, or they use these two in place of whatever shampoo and conditioner they were using before,” said Schwartz. Cleansing conditioners seem to be exactly what consumers are looking for, noted James Grundy, R&D director with Eufora, which touts a cleansing cream called Curl’nPromise. According to Grundy, Eufora recognized that curly hair (especially ethnic hair) would benefit from a hybrid cleaning approach like a cleansing cream, “however, we also knew the long-term limitations of current cleansing conditioners and wanted to improve upon the formulations, so that curly girls could embrace a cleansing conditioner as their primary shampoo.” Eufora created a blend of special plant extracts with high levels of saponins (desert date/soap berry, baby’s breath and shikakai) that help to cleanse the hair without the need of traditional surfactants, leaving the hair hydrated without buildup. “By utilizing these special soap-like extracts, Eufora formulas are able to remove excess oils and buildup, while still maintaining the benefits of traditional cleansing conditioners,” said Grundy. “In a sense Eufora was the first to be a truly ‘cleansing’ conditioner, and this is the point of difference that makes Curl’n Cleansing Cream a market leader.” Michael Gordon—founder and ex-president of Bumble and bumble—believes his new brand, Hairstory, offers the category’s best cleansing product. “Always in the back of my mind was the idea that shampoo just wasn’t good,” said Gordon. Recalling his childhood days in England, he said, “When my hair was washed, which was infrequent, it was dry and wooly…But by week’s end without washing, it looked good and felt good.” So Gordon and an inner circle of Bumble alumnae set out to build a non-shampoo shampoo, mapping out a carefully curated product line and ingredient approach. The result is Purely Perfect Cleansing Cream, a formulation in which aloe vera and essential oils do the work of detergents and surfactants. “Ours cleans hair in a different way, but it is a clean, clean. It revives,” said Gordon, who isn’t one to hold back about ingredients that might be found in other cleaning conditioners. “Most are liars; you can check the ingredients. They bury the surfactants,” he told Happi. Purely Perfect Cleansing Cream’s key ingredients include rose hip oil, evening primrose oil, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, panthenol, dicetyldimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate and cetearyl alcohol, jojoba seed oil, sunflower seed oil, keratin, hydrolyzed keratin, Equisetum hiemale extract, peppermint oil, methyl lactate, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth-20, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and glycerin. “It is an expensive formulation, and frankly, I don’t expect other [hair care companies] to do it,” noted Gordon, whose philosophy has been impacted by books like “Cradle to Cradle” and Al Gore’s film “An Inconvenient Truth.” Since users no longer need conditioners or masques when switching to Purely Perfect, Gordon contends his products are more economical; consumers will spend less money on multiple products and save time, energy and water with less time spent in the shower. Currently, Purely Perfect Cleansing Crème and its two sister styling products (Foundation Cream and Smooth Finish) are available online (at Net-A-Porter and J. Crew, for example) and inside 75 locations, including Urban Outfitters. “We’re shocked and they are shocked,” Gordon said about Purely Perfect’s success at the specialty retail chain which is popular with the 18-30 year-old set. But you won’t find Purely Perfect in a box store quite yet. Gordon told Happi that he passed on an opportunity to be stocked at a “fairly big bricks and mortar retailer.” But on the professional side—where Gordon made his mark with Bumble and bumble—it has admittedly been an uphill battle. Many salons were expecting “a new Bumble” he said. Still, Gordon is banking on the future of Purely Perfect. “There’s a market for people who don’t trust shampoo,” he said.
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