The New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ Suppliers Day was a success, as usual.  There were approximately 400 exhibitors and more than 5,500 attendees crowding the aisles. Among the masses, were the following exhibitors promoting their offerings for the category:

Vantage was there with there with a triclosan replacement called LipoFresh PG (INCI: Propylene glycol (and) ethyl lauroyl arginate laurate (proposed) (and) glyceryl  laurate). In 2014, a study conducted at the University of California San Diego School of Medicine linked triclosan to liver damage in mice. LipoFresh is a natural derived emollient with antimicrobial properties that utilizes a controlled release bioactive salt for efficacy over a long period of time. It was as effective as triclosan at the same use levels and demonstrated activity against several classes of gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria as well as yeasts and molds. It contains the vegetable-derived fatty acid lauric acid and the amino acid arginine, and is slightly soluble in aqueous systems.  Apparently, the ethyl lauroyl arginate cation has been used as a preservative in food and cosmetic systems and has proven to be safe.

Vantage says that the lauric acid anion also exhibits antimicrobial properties. A 0.3% concentration was used in the test studies.
Another exhibitor, Sonneborn, Parsippany, NJ, has changed the appearance of petrolatum with two new products—SonneCone CM and DM1. Both are 100% USP petrolatums that also meet the FDA food grade requirements. 

The difference is that they are white, non-greasy, and offer a smoother, drier, low tack after-feel with a more satiny appearance after rub-in. They can be used in oil free formulations wherever an emollient and moisturizer are needed.

The difference between them is that SonneCone CM is a soft, translucent, high gloss petrolatum that produces a powdery soft after feel, while SonneCone DM1 is also soft and translucent, but has a medium gloss with a higher cushion. When SonneCone is applied to the skin, it spreads smoothly without the drag or tackiness that is typical of standard petrolatum. The melting point is between 38 and 51°F.

Croda featured Hydrosativum P (INCI: Hydrolyzed pea protein) that is derived from peas that apparently have high protein content and an assortment of phytonutrients and antioxidant properties. Among the amino acids present in the pea proteins are glutamic, aspartic, arginine and lysine. Hydrosativum P is a moisturizing active for skin and hair, hydrates hair at low humidity, improves skin firmness and elasticity, and has anti-irritancy properties.

It can be used at 1-5% as illustrated by the following formula:

Cooling Lotion

Ingredients:	%Wt
Part A
Caprylic/capric triglyceride	5.0
Glyceryl stearate (and) polyglyceryl-6  palmitate/succinate (and) cetearyl alcohol	3.0
Isostearyl  isostearate	2.0
Stearyl heptanoate (and) stearyl caprylate	1.0
Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexylglycerin	0.4
Part B
Water	qs 100
Glycerin	3.0
Xanthan gum	0.3
Part C
Hydrosativum P	5.0
Water (and) glycerin (and) vaccinium myrtillus fruit rxtract	1.0
Fragrance	qs

Procedure:  Add water with stirring to the mixture of xanthan gum and glycerin.
In separate container, combine A ingredients, and heat A and B to 65-70°C. Add A to B with stirring. Homogenize at 10000 rpm for 30 seconds per 100g. Stir until cool and then add C ingredients. 

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Harvey M. Fishman
Consultant
Email: hrfishman34@hotmail.com

Harvey Fishman has a consulting firm in Wanaque, NJ, specializing in cosmetic formulations and new product ideas, offering tested finished products. He has more than 30 years of experience and has been director of research at Bonat, Nestlé LeMur and Turner Hall. He welcomes descriptive literature from suppliers and bench chemists and others in the field.